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• #852
Looks like their site is fucked.
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• #853
It's a .pdf, so the link launches a download.
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• #854
No, the whole speedplay.com site was failing. Looks like it's up now.
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• #855
"NOTE: Do not try to remove the needle bearing from the Zero Pedal body. The needle bearing is permanently bonded in the Zero Pedal body and cannot be removed without damaging components."
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• #857
True. They just don't appear to be user-serviceable (hammer) from outward appearances and I've had one of them come apart mid-ride so I'd prefer not to lose a foot during one of my 1500W Cat 6 commuter sprints :)
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• #858
My experience accords with the second link I posted: the needle bearing just taps out.
Send them to me and I'll do it: "what the eye doesn't see, the
heartgooch doesn't grieve over" -
• #859
Are you starting a bike workshop or something?
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• #860
Scilly Cycles has a nice ring to it!
I do have a number of "cash-rich, time-poor" customers, but it'll only cost you postage: you need to save your pennies for throwing down a tubeless-shaped hole.
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• #861
I should really do it myself since I might have to do similar in the field but I am running low on time these days. This annoying thing "work" that seems to have slotted into my life again. I'll see how I go. Scherrit reckons I might need a soldering iron which is making me think I should just buy another set of pedals :) Stupid Speedplay.
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• #862
Using a soldering iron to melt the threadlock is the easiest method, but you could stick a Torx bit in the screw and heat that with a blowtorch.
You have a blowtorch in the kitchen for crème brûlée, right?
I'd laugh at most people who claimed they might have to change their pedal bearings "in the field", but I understand that you can be quite hard on your kit...
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• #863
The only cream in my place is the 20 varieties of chamois cream.
As a reformed (I left the country in question) pyromaniac, it's best I don't have access to anything as exciting as a blowtorch. I've held off buying a soldering iron for 12 or so years here I reckon I can do more. But I'm quite good at hitting things until they do what they're supposed to (no, not the missus, not all aussies are like that)
I know it sounds far fetched but if I've spent £5-10k getting to a race in forrun, then I'll finish the fucker even if I have to wait a day for some bearings and a soldering iron to arrive, so yeah, not exactly field repair but you get the idea.
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• #864
I've done a few axle changes now and never heated the screw. Comes out fine.
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• #865
This will be me...
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• #866
I just found a box of brand new pedals in a drawer.
This means that the replacement of bearings will almost certainly never happen :)
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• #867
Ok, lied, the T20 screw came out easy. No heat. Maybe i will do a bearing swap.
Second one came apart easily too. I'm going to order a bearing kit and finish this thang.
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• #868
My left speedplay zero has started creaking under pressure. What's actually the pedal on the spindle? Is it going to just come off?
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• #869
My Dura Ace 7810 developed play in the bearings. Thought I replace them but binned the pedals when I recognised a part of the alloy where the front of the cleat clicks most gone.
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• #870
Am now annoyed how little play the new pedals have.
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• #871
Any good TCR walking stories?
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• #872
The Torx screw at the end.
See: http://www.speedplay.com/pubs/instructions/ZEROSystemInstructions20100713.pdfIt can come off - I've torn a Speedplay apart before.
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• #873
Not from me, not this year. Others picked an interesting 25k gravel road that bypassed a nice, if a little busy tarmac option.
I'd even packed proper cleat covers this year, expecting to have to walk but I just avoided anything I couldn't ride, so some unplanned detours happened but most of the gravel was rideable.
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• #874
Bugger that listing ended and now they're £20 for a pair repair. Maybe I just get the £45 10-pedal kit?
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• #875
You've got speedplays now? Which ones?
No, but Speedplay have published them.
I haven't always needed to use heat to break the threadlock.