Isen workshop: adventures in batch production (or not...)

Go to bed Thue. Drøm sødt. X

Well, I wanted to call it 'Hardon' (hartley/McDonough) but caren moaned: "what's wrong with you are you twelve?" and "seriously why would having the slang name for an erect penis be in any way beneficial to our brand?" as well as "I don't even know why I agreed to go into business with you, candy fades are cool, but other people do them and I think wishbones are overrated" so in the end we just poured scrabble letters on the floor and waited until something came out that looked good on a down tube.

By happenstance it ended up being the old English word for steel. Idk I still think hardon would have been best....

From what I have heard they have also fucked the otp people around massively. I assume some sort of restructuring or lack of critical component is taking place. Maybe they cannot source the '-' to go between all the product codes to go on the parts? FD9170 doesn't have quite the same ring...

LOL.... I am sorry, I agree with Caren. Lesson number one, in fact, the only lesson you need to learn. LISTEN TO THE WOMEN! WE KNOW WHAT WE ARE TALKING ABOUT.

Reported for shouting and sexism.

(Can't do this as my wife who is never wrong would murder me)

If we have a big disagreement, she phones Libby (my wife) and 'asks what she thinks...' which almost always ends with me getting a talking to when I get home as well. Knew it was a mistake introducing them...

Big disagreement as in which order of colour to fade to and from, rather than how much culpability Churchill had for the betrayal of Poland in ww2. Bit of perspective is probably useful, but HANDS OFF MY FADES!

The latest frame paint job is better than the one in promo pics. Was Caren involved in that?

Paint MK2 also got seal of approval from my wife (who was not such a fan of paint MK1)

I'm scowling at the computer screen. I shall. Not be telling either of them that they were right.

I just read this exchange out to my wife. A righteous giggle crossed with a cackle was the response.

So are we right or are we right? Gents, you have just made my day.

I have commenced throwing of electticity, or more specifically started last night. Due to family dramas it looks like I'll be doing a lot of this nocturnally, which isn't too bad.

1 Attachment

Is that one bead around the whole tube or are there two separate beads, top and bottom?

The tails don't overlap: how do you mate the hot end with the cold end?

Run hot and fast with a lot of Argon and you can join them up. Obvioisly you have to do it in a number of sittings but it means you can get that 'what is this a fillet for ants? Take it back and make it at least...... 3 times as big" look, rather than the perfectly structuraly sound but lest' prolly' filler plonked on tube look you find on most production bikes.

Also very tight mitres or you'll blow through straight Way with that method.

It's a bit clearer on the seat tube top tube junction as there isn't a thick walled tube to aim the arc at which makes me a lot more cautious. You can see in the photo below the transition between laps as there is a break in the HAZ discolouration. You can also see on the base of the seat tube that the weld bead is more proud, as you need more amperage the more tighter the angle of the tube, but both the tubes are still really thin, so if the arc wonders you'll blow straight through, so i tend to turn down the down stroke amps and spend a little longer with higher amps on the up, but less overall.

1 Attachment

Good example of mitre clearance required for decent tig welding. Anything more and you'll be blowing holes in walls these thin, and even if you could bridge the gap it would build into a wonky frame.

1 Attachment

Do you need to do much hand filing to get that close?

None normally. The only issue we have found is with how we have ended setting up the main tube mitring jig. For boring reasons it has to be mounted on the left of the bed with the seat stay fixture on the right (see pic) This means we can't cut the seat tube notch as the angle is too acute. I've had to hand cut and file those myself, as I don't want to be resetting Mills. However this is not practical in the long run as it requires unnecessary skilled labour, so that has lead me to.....

1 Attachment

.... Buy yet another mill!

I'm going to build a dedicated seat tube notch fixture for it, then it's good to go. Ebay is a dangerous place....

1 Attachment

Buy ALL THE MILLS!

This time next year...

Thanks for the explanation.

Getting adequate penetration with those tight angles/thin walls is mad skillz.

And congratulations on the mill-hoard!

Post 569......
is that a special reaming tool on top of the mill ?
:)

I'm guessing that's one of Dan Borgs "hand tools".