Bike fit / correct riding position

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  • I've been trying to get a fit there for months and the guy isn't a good communicator, to put it nicely.

    One of my friends says a fit with him solved her knee issues. Another had a good fit but couldn't get any follow up questions answered once the fit was done and paid for because the emailing is so slack.

  • Oh okay - doesn't sound too positive... I work close by so I might drop in and see whether he is better in person? Anything you want me to ask?

  • Has anyone got experience with Cadence in Crystal Palace? They seem a chunk cheaper than others - is that because the fit just isn't as good?

  • Also keen to hear any first-hand experience, as I'm considering booking with them in the next month

  • Yep - I had my fit done there, with Simon*, who I thought was very good. It's a Retul system fit.

    Did quite a radical change in my position and all my problems have basically gone away, so I recommend it! My partner also had hers there.

    Simon's been very good on follow up stuff (he fitted my new cleats in the same place as the old when I got new shoes) and my partner went back a couple of times soon after for some fine tuning - that stuff was free.

    They also have a £50 follow up fit service, if you want it changing further down the line. I, probably slightly cheekily, used that to get him to set up my bike again when I changed pretty much every component a couple of years after the fit and he checked all was fine with the fit since it'd been a while since I'd had it. Impressively, I was even less flexible this time.

    *I'm sure the others are fine too, but have only dealt with Simon (you can choose when booking who to have). I think he's the slightly more senior of the fitters, and therefore potentially more willing to help you out for free afterwards (as opposed to just saying "book a follow up fit). That's just the impression I got - could be nonsense!

  • I've also had a fit there from Simon (about 4 years ago now) and would recommend it.

    I probably need a follow-up, as I'm now much more flexible and have dicked about with my bikes so much they no longer resemble the original setup he configured.

  • What's the current recommendation for bike fit in Bristol?

  • Anyone care to explain the (probably pretty basic) principle of ETT vs frame reach? Trying to get my head around how more ETT but the same reach could possibly equate to about the same fit. About 1.5 degrees difference between the two seat angles, so I get where it comes from, but what difference would it mean in terms of fit? Surely more top tube = more stretch, even if the reach is about the same?

    Oh, and I'll go with the usual tactic of recommending the only thing I know and say BW for Bristol bike fitting.

  • I'd recommend Jimmy at Cyclefit

    jimmy@cyclefit.co.uk

    Professional, responsive. Good follow up and didn't push me to buy bespoke.

  • The ETT is not a great measurement. The difference in ST angle will only have an effect on your saddle position (if you want it the same in relation with the BB). If the reach is identical and the saddle setback adjusted you will get the same fit.

  • Cheers for the recommendation - they're pretty close to me so I'll give them a go

  • As @Lolo says, if you make the seat tube steeper, you'll get a shorter ETT (by insersecting the horizontal closer to the front) but this is only a problem if you can't get enough layback to put your saddle in the same place relative the BB and bars.


    1 Attachment

    • reach.gif
  • Yes, a longer top tube means a greater distance from your saddle to the handlebars. On road racing frames, manufacturers seem to spec slacker seat tube and steeper head tube angles to give taller riders enough space to fit into, whilst maintaining a short wheelbase.

    If you currently have an "aggressive" fit (i.e. lots of saddle to bar drop) and you want to maintain that, then you'll probably need an inline seatpost with the slacker seat tube, otherwise your hip angle might be a bit tight and you'll struggle to spin smoothly.

    But, if you want something a bit more "relaxing" go with the slacker seat tube and raise the bars up a bit.

  • @edscoble has a good gif for this

  • My partner keeps saying she feels like she is sliding off the front of the saddle, and lifting herself backwards all the time. What do I try and adjust first? Saddle is level.

  • Personally, I'd start by lowering the seatpost a little.

  • saddle height (lower),
    shorter stem/shorter reach bars,
    saddle further forward,
    different shape saddle,
    or she might need to rotate her pelvis forward more, in which case she'll probably need more saddle to bar drop and a longer stem.
    I'd try stuff in the order above though.

  • Cheers, will try all that, (minus the SMP because that involves spending ££)

  • Change partner?

  • Fascinating. Last sentence is top lols.

  • No one would ever dare telling him though!

  • Cheers for the explanation. Turns out I got it wrong, both ST are the same in the 56 size, but a difference of 1 degree in HT which I guess accounts for the shorter reach, slightly offset by a longer wheelbase.

    Basically there's too many factors at play for me to fully analyse what the difference would be, but the answer is probably fuck all.

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Bike fit / correct riding position

Posted by Avatar for Timmy2wheels @Timmy2wheels

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