Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

I stand corrected. That's pretty crap!

It's probably because they want a Japanese speaking entity in between P2M and their end users

The simple way round it is just to get the thing forwarded / reposted to asia and suck up the import duty yourself.

Happy to act as a middleman.

I've forwarded bikes to Denmark and bars to Australia etc for other forumengers.

I've got two Quarq Riken power meters. One has been fine, the other has died twice, although it's been replaced twice under warranty, the second time with an Elsa unit. I've got a few P2M units. They've all worked without fail.

Of the two, I wouldn't get another Quarq unit, but I'd definitely get another P2M.

What would be the best way to get a power meter on a Tarmac Pro SL4 running Specialized carbon cranks. Would it be worth swapping out the chainset and using an adapter to run a 6800/9000 Chainset with left crank arm power meter? Or is there a better way?

https://www.quarq.com/product/quarq-for-specialized-power-meter-spider/#sm.01m3mw821ak3d16100l1q9fke5fex

How about this?

If you have the S-Works/FACT cranks with detachable spider, P2M is your friend.

Chainset with left crank arm power meter? Or is there a better way?

There is always a better way than using one-sided power :)

I have the Specialized Fact cranks so it looks like these will fit. Thanks for that, I didn't know this was an option. 590 Euros though. Wow!

Be careful with those as the resale value is not great should you ever want to shift them on.

See if you can get a deal on Rotor 3D+ or similar if you aren't prepared to keep them forever.

Chaps, thanks for the offers. It's easy for me to get stuff sent to my mum and for her to send them on from Cumbria, but thanks so much for the offers.

I think training to power is the future for me, so I'll keep thinking about Quarq vs P2M.

Your input has been incredibly useful and I'll let you know what I plump for.

I think I loosened the lockring spider on another set of Rotor cranks. Makes a lovely cracking noise even rev.

Are there proper Man Cranks™ that work with P2M I won't loosen parts on?

Are there proper Man Cranks™ that work with P2M I won't loosen parts on?

The SRAM ones are bolted on with torx bolts so in theory even if you did losen it off with yo' megawatts you can fix it by the roadside.

You like SRAM stuff don't you?

LOLz

Pioneer/Shimano - as strong as normal Shimano, nothing to come off or break in a novel fashion.

You're the only person I've seen with one. I like common muck.

Bit spendy too.

It's a great powermeter, only slight annoyance is the magnets, but that's simply because the stickers are single use so you have to use electrical tape for frame #2 onward.

Magnets? It's like like an SRM is it?

Just swapped a kaput quarq cinqo for a p2m type s on my rotor 3D. Straight forward switch, the (very old) quarq looks pretty industrial in comparison.

Was ready to try it out today, but woke up to rain hammering on the window so went back to sleep...

Did you use threadlock? (both types)

Yes, the specified thread lock and torque. I wouldn't be complaining if I shortcut the install!

@hippy - magnet needed on either chainstay to trigger the PM for each crank rev.

Out.

Dealt with that shit with SRM.

Just checking - are you saying that the rotor spider is coming loose just with normal day to day use?

Actually, I'm not sure that's true any more. When I was reading up on them prior to getting my left crank Pioneer, I seem to recall reading that the most recent firmware update negated the need for the magnet. I fitted mine before upgrading so have left it on there, but yeah, shouldn't be needed anymore.