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• #627
I'd be up for a ride too. Need to fix my Holdsworth with the Cyclo Ace I've got for it though. Currently fixed and I still don't know how to properly ride it.
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• #628
Maybe a bit late for this thread - just rebuilt this Duckett Superlite
Guesstimate late 1950s, Nervex Pro lugs, campy drops, parts bin built.Very nice ride - pity there is not much info available on Ducketts
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• #629
Used a bit of technology to save an early Fiamme rim. The valve ferrule had corroded a bit on the back and worked loose. I don't know anywhere that could put a new one in so I used one of our exotic adhesives to bond it back in on the front and bridge the gap on the back.
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• #631
Sounds like a plan!
I'll book it into my calendar and will bring my bike home so that I can work on it! -
• #632
Brought her home. (this was on the way home)
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• #633
I have a noob question which reflects my ignorance of single-speed/fixed stuff.
Would it be possible to mount a 3 speed freewheel on the freewheel side of a flip flop hub?
Do I need to re-dish the wheel? -
• #634
Sounds good! Any hills?
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• #635
Yes you can. For example Resilion hubs came with fixed threads on one side and freewheel thread on the other, then were supplied with axle and spacer for either single, three or five speed. Depending how much space you've got on the drive side between the hub and stays, you might get away without having to space the wheel over and re-dish.
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• #636
Nice! I thought so too but wasn't sure. Perfect. That means the Cyclo Ace on the above will be fine :)
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• #637
Looking at the space between the dropout and the freewheel, you might not even need a spacer @anidel
Are those brake levers from a Dawes? Nice frame, I started on my La Variable last week - have had it now for 2 years and not done anything with it (except riding)... Exciting but painstakingly slow, carefully chipping away 3 layers of paint to try and reveal the original finish :) -
• #638
Pictures?
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• #639
Will make some new ones as soon as there is anything to show, as I said it is slow.
I put some pics up on flickr just now, if you are interested: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm1GgukZ -
• #640
Nice!!
Interested in an Il Primo stem? :) -
• #641
Well, the Il Primo's are nice stems - but that GB Spearpoint is original to the frame. And for most of my other projects I have stems reserved, thanks for the offer!
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• #642
Fair enough. Got a lovely one for the Holdsworth (along the one it has now) but they are both too recent.
Like your frame. I have only seen one other La Variable on the Internet and I think was same period as yours. -
• #643
I am going to mount a Cyclo Ace on this one and bluemels black mudguards. I need a period stem.
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• #644
Sorry for slow reply @7ven but its my first Strava map!
I have tried to make the route as easy and hill less as possible but its not the easiest area to do this, i should chosen Essex as the location but it wouldn't have been much of a challenge for the bikes so here it is,
"https://www.strava.com/routes/9981628"
The hills are fairly gradual so it shouldn't be to bad, @anidel don't be put off from bringing the Holdsworth I'm looking forward to seeing it. -
• #645
I will bring it, just wondering if I should try to put the Cyclo Ace on it and risk not coming or just bring it as is in single speed more...need to have proper brake power though.
What brake pads you dudes use on steel rims? I've got the Koolstop orange, ops, salmon, ones, but they don't seem nice, particularly in wet. I might actually probably go as fixed as in that case I can use my legs to slow down.
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• #646
I also got a couple of leather faced ones, but they also don't seem the best? I don't expect modern power of course :)
I had asked this question already, but haven't really got a 'make me feel safe' solution yet... -
• #647
Ah, Knatts Valley and Stinker pot Lane as my partner calls it. Looks like a good route. Not sure what I'll bring but will endeavour to get one of my bikes up and running for it. Quite fancy bringing the Blue Riband but may need to walk up Tinker Pot on 50/14
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• #648
I found the leather ones cut down on the chattering compared to plain rubber blocks - but basically it's the chrome rim that causes the wet braking problems, not the blocks. Regularly feathering the brakes a bit to shed the water also helps.
Edit: also found that modern blocks didn't work at all well on old brake calipers and rims. The small old style rectangular ones worked a lot better. I think it's a surface area thing and the larger surface area is detrimental when you haven't got the leverage (ie with old spindly brakes)
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• #649
I fear i will be walking up stinker pot lane as well, even with gears.
Definitely bring the Blue Riband @7ven, incidentally i need to look at my brakes as well as they are dreadful and thats with alloy rims. -
• #650
We'll all have a nice walk up there
Just in case anyones interested. Decided to sell the pre war Maclean Featherweight.
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/307977/#comment13755430
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