Lunchtimeprojects - modern steel road bike

I'm currently doing fabrication work for a small British bicycle company and about to start on an after hours personal project. With this thread I'll document the process as well as welcoming information/opinions from the LFGSS hive mind. Any and all input appreciated :)

The idea behind the bike is to build something a little different from what I've built/ridden in the past to gain more informed opinion on different aspects of frame design, tubing and components.

As far as component choices go I'm shooting for budget conscious quality. Some parts I'm totally undecided upon but I've collected a few bits already, will be using old wheels, have some personal preferences which I'll stick with.

As per the title the frame is going to be made from modern steels: a blend of various tubes from Columbus and Deda, oversized as much as possible and built around a pf30 BB and tapered steerer carbon fork.

Following. Loved your other projects.

Same, I have a new found interest in frame building since GCN started documenting it last week.

pf30 BB

Considered the T47 standard too as you get to choose?

Both super heavy bb shell options in steel context. 30mm axle is doable now with 68mm threaded and BB86 so no real reason to add weight with pf30/t47

But more aero?

On a steel bike?! Who cares

Yep indeed, wondering why op is considering PF30 in the first place really so throwing that out as an alternative.

Subbed. Please take lots of photos.

Has this been resolved yet?

Hey all, apologies for the gap in posts. The ball is finally starting to roll on this so will update as the project progresses.

RE: the BB discussion - I know threaded bb's work well. BSA is tried and tested and t47 makes a lot of sense with oversize tubing, the compound mitres get silly with OS tubes wrapping round a BSA shell however I don't feel the need to test out a T47 bb for myself. Can't see there would be any I ssues with a threaded interface and space for huge bearings.

If you look to automotive or industrial applications, where bearings see higher loads at higher speeds in comparable/worse conditions than cycling, bearings will be press fit. I'm curious to see if/where/how problems could arise with a quality shell and proper prep and installation.

I was speaking with the boss about tubesets the other day and he pointed to a box on a high shelf in the workshop saying I might find something interesting in there. I did: Columbus Max seattube and down tube. I'm gonna use the seat tube, which is oval tapered, round at the top to take a 27.2 post ovalised at the BB. The DT is cool but I'm leaning towards using a 38mm round Spirit. The TT is on its way from Reynolds - 853 also Oval tapered, ovalised at the HT tapering to round 28mm at the ST. This mix should give a front end that's beefed up and stiff in the areas it needs to be without being overbuilt and looking good to boot. The rear end I'm less picky about, I'll use what's to hand - probably Columbus 14mm seatstays with a slight s bend and Deda chainstays.

Subbed

A few packages have been arriving in the post, super excited to get started!

Forks: in line with the mentality of budget conscious quality these seemed a great option. Sub 400g uncut, tapered steerer.

Tubes:

The dark tube is the 853 oval taper TT the other is the Max ST

These are the dropouts I have, they're really nicely machined Paragon stainless plate with mudguard and rack mounts, I'm minded to save these for a winter trainer but don't have anything more suitable to hand so probably will use them on this build.

The geo: though I'm gonna make some very slight tweeks to it before building

Is this going to be tigged or fillet brazed? I'm guess by geometry off the shelf lugs are not an option.

More than likely tigged with dropouts and small braze ons silver brazed

Pmw t47 shells are negligably heavier than their BSA counterparts, much thinner wall thicknesses than the originals.

I'm a fan for a few reasons:

1. Di2 and dynamo routing much much easier.
   
2. I can use hologram cranks.
   
3. Much easier welding profiles, less compound mitres.
   
   

On the down side you only have Chris king and white industries supplying bb's in any number, although white industries have said they will make them until they close.

True, although the pf solution for bb's was really badly thought out. You might have much higher torque loading or rpms on an automotive press fit bearing, but the twisting loads acting on the BB area of the bicycle, with the (quite high) risk of deformation post welding due to insufficient wall thicknesses meant that it was always a bit hit and miss. Rob @hoops has a pf30 and has no problems, others have had much less luck. Fortunately no one has mentioned bb30!

(Looks like shand? If so whatever the guvnor says will be more than fine anyway 😉)

Following this closely. Really nice that you are building this yourself. Is it going to be yellow like the last one?

I have PF30 BB shell with a Chris King BB fitted with with care and never had any issues what so ever.

If had a new bike built now I would spec T47. BSA is no good for modern frames with OS tubing in my opinion, makes for over complicated mitres, and looks silly.

As far as T47 BB manufacturers being in short supply, I don't think it's really an issue, as I'm not sure why anyone would bother with anything other than CK headsets and BB's on a custom built bike. Yes, they are expensive, but they will literally last a life time if looked after.

Thanks for the input, aye it's Shand, can't believe you got it from those photos!

I'm taking a slightly different tact with the bike than originally planned.

I sold my race bike for the move up here and have been racing and training on my winter bike which after 7 months is now dying a death. So I need this bike done quickly to have something to ride and I'll need a new winter bike soon too.

@Heldring it's not gonna be yellow but discussions on paint have started. The most important thing to me is that the painter can do something he's stoked on. He was moaning the other day that he never gets to do fades, so maybe some proper garish klein inspired fades...

However he did an awesome colour-flip job last week which is very tempting or a subtler classier metallic navy with black decals

I'll post up some pics later

I've spent a few hours in the workshop over the weekend and made good progress. I've been keeping a paper journal going through the process and will share that when it's finished, for now I'll keep it simple.

Finalised geo

Build-master drawing with mitre lengths and angles

HT marking, cutting, checking square, length and drilling vent holes

Working the ST: BB mitre, slotting and drilling

DT

TT internal rear brake cable routing

Figuring out the rear end: clearances, spacing, angles etc. Even though it's a very short rear end with the heavily ovalised stays I'll still have clearance for 28mm tyres, 53/39 rings with no need to dimple.

For the build I've got a few bits in already and am pretty much decided on the rest.

Enve stem was a given to me as a thank you for some work I did on a bike last year. I really wanted to use it for this build so had my bike fit done and designed the geo with this as the only constraint.

Flo 30 wheels I've had for a while, love em!

Fizik Antares VSX was recommended based on pressure mapping in the bike fit session. I've put them on my other bikes and we've been getting along great

My original thought was to go with a Campagnolo group just to try out something different but for price/quality I can't see past Ultegra. 53/39, 11-28, 172.5mm

I've got a Thomson post new in my parts box, will probably get a clamp to match. Was thinking of using a Cane Creek HS as they're affordable and good quality. Deda or Pro 40cm Compact bars and Look Keo pedals to finish it off.

And now the proper deliberations come....paint

Really like these 3 colour fades

Also having white on there means less work we use a white base coat

The colour flip...

Or something a bit classier, dark and metallic?

I'm leaning the way of the klein scheme complete with colour matched stem but keen for input. It also depends what we have in and what the painter is most excited about