• Shoved these on the plastic. They seem a bit thin on the ground with everything 31.8 these days. Should look incredible. Although @Si46 might tell me I've got the wrong ones as I'll take his lead on this. He's also recommended putting gear shifting on the bars, although admittedly more expensive I think he's right as those head tube eyelets are crying out to be used. The other thing I noticed is the fag paper clearance on the front wheel means somebody has drilled the callipers, structural integrity aside, I only hope the blocks line up with the braking surface, but we'll see. I also managed thanks to Simon to get a new back wheel to "match" the front, which will look great and a bit easier to get tubs for being 700c than the front. Couldn't believe the price of 650c tubulars.


    1 Attachment

    • Screen Shot 2017-05-20 at 22.23.45.png
  • No I won't :) - These are my favourite bars. Can be a bit fiddly to fit brake and gear end levers on them but not impossible. I ran my Rychtarski with these bars.
    If you run brake and gear cables internally you will need to drill another exit hole near clamp but do not drill it in line or the same distance from reinforcement as this may weeken bar. (they are very strong though so don't worry)
    I used Shimano and in friction mode (makes for nice smooth changes and multi gear jumps)
    Are you running double chainring or single?
    Simon

About