Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

So I bought a second hand Powertap G3 that arrived yesterday. It all seems to work, although I should prob get it serviced sooner rather than later. The only thing I'm wondering about is how you all display power readout if you are trying to do a steady effort (turbo session, ftp test etc)?

I messed around on the track at the velopark yesterday evening, and really struggled to keep a consistent power output, even on the long straight. I can't imagine how I would start to do an interval that was within +/- 10 watts of target power.

I'll mainly be using it on trainer road, but interested to hear people's thoughts on 3 sec average, smoothing etc.

10sec average for steady efforts works for me.

Also, it took me a little while to learn to produce steady power outside (still not great at it, but getting better).

3 sec, 30 sec, ap, np.
I tend to look at 30, ap, np to check an effort is in line with where I want it, but I could ride a set power with my eyes closed now. I am a metronome though.

But you don't need to be bang on to be doing the right thing. Just around that area, wattage will fluctuate a bit. Don't worry to much. Just keep an eye on it so it's in the right ball part. 3sec will move up and down.

Three second is waaaay too spikey.

I use 10 seconds on Trainerroad. Find even 10 seconds hard to keep steady outside without staring at my stem.

Pleased with my FSA Powerbox so far. Works very well as you'd expect from P2M.

I use 3s NP (I don't find it too spikey but I am a TTer), 10s AP and on a second screen have 30s AP

Thanks all, that's good to hear. I'm a TTer but apparently not a very smooth one.
I'm sure it will be easier on the turbo.

I've just selected "Power" with no averaging period, is that even less than 3s avg? I don't find it too spikey.

Smooth as glass!

0W... 0W... 0W... 0W... 0W... 0W...0W... 0W... 0W... 0W... 0W... 0W...

At last MTB PM for WW. I'd better start saving

Race Face Cinch Power Meter

“We took the heart of the lightest, most versatile production cranksets on the planet, and gave it power. The CINCH Power Meter gives you the tool to train for the Enduro and XC glory you truly deserve. Protected in your BB Shell, the CINCH Power Meter not only gives you the advantage you need to gauge your training and push your boundaries, but it does it with the compatibility and performance you have come to expect from CINCH. Thanks to the adaptable spindle, you can pick your poison from NEXT SL G4 to our Turbine R cranks, and with our CINCH App and both ANT+ and Bluetooth, you can hook it up to your favourite head unit and be on your way to the wattage cottage in no time” – Race Face.
◾Power Accuracy +/- 2%
◾Cadence & pedal effciency data
◾Dual BLE / ANT+ for head unit compatibility
◾Battery life over 400h & USB rechargeable
◾Utilizing CINCH for 1x or 2x configurations
◾Cinch Power Meter App for iPhone or Android
◾Just 65g more than standard 134mm mountain spindle
◾CINCH crank system compatible with these cranks: Next SL G4, Next G3, Next R, Turbine

1 second.

Has anyone ordered a Quarq pm from powermeter24?
How long did it take to ship?

Any ideas if the older style Shimano 5-bolt chainrings will fit on a 110bcd P2M on Rotor cranks?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-ultegra-fc6750-10sp-compact-chainrings/rp-prod116082

Or do those stupid arms get in the way?

Should be ok? Only ever had troubles with aero rings.

Loooong! They did warn me before hand hat it would take 10-20 working days, it went slightly past that the nice chap from customer service promised to upgrade shipping. It's now arrived at my office, but a combo of work travel and holiday means I won't see it till next weekend :/

Cheers. I think my issues might actually be from a sticky rear derailler (ooh nurse) but I wanted to replace the rings before TABR anyway.

Same thing for me. Mine is still in the post but it got sent thursday, should be here tomorrow

I need a bit of help.
I got some time ago Garmin vector double sided. It's the older one. Unfortunately it don't work. I think it might be pods but I can't be sure. Is anybody in London able to help me one day and try them with pods you have to see if they will work and if I should just order new pods.
Cheers for help

So pedal based power meters....

From an engineering perspective I am very aware of the sensitivity of strain gauges etc. Factory calibration is very different to end user calibration. So if you took a stages crank arm and hit it (the crank not the stages block) against a wall, the properties of the arm may well change and the power meter itself will no longer be 'accurate' (let's not discuss the intricacies of accuracy here). Obviously a crank arm or Bb spindle are rarely going to get much abuse and scope for such issues...

However a pedal takes a fair bashing in a normal season even with the utmost care. Fair enough this is mostly superficial damage to the pedal body, not the instrumented spindle. And you can easily replace the body on garmin vector etc. But a careless mate at a cafe stop causing a stumble or a crash in a crit will a big peak force into the pedal axle at all sorts of angles.....

Obviously nothing is perfect, but are pedal based power meters inherently not that long lasting a solution?

My P2m battery went from good to dead in a few hours yesterday.
So if you get a low bat warning, change it at first opportunity.

Have this issue with the Powerbox, which is essentially a rebranded P2M. Chews through the batteries.

Thankfully they're cheap and easy to replace.

I forget to measure how many hours I get, but it's not 300-400. Plus the low battery warning thing seems to be very short lived. So just change as soon as possible.

I know with P2M they used to recommend a specific brand, might be worth trying those. Renata 2450. Or just any brand that is lithium based.

I get about 200-250 hours riding or so according to riding logs using the Renata brand. I have swapped the battery over when getting the warning almost immediately though.

I've used a vector for 8 months with no problems. As long as they are torqued & calibrated they are good value imho. I have also clipped the pedal going round corners in crits and power readings have remained consistent throughout - I'm sure there are many with negative experiences of vectors/p1s however