Track Frame Project, maybe a Rourke? (it is a Rourke)

Posted on
Page
of 5
  • Just looks like it hasn't been put on the right way. Get it reamed by your lbs.

    Edit. nvm, say you've got it without bb and put it in yourself. I'd go to you lbs anyway and get it in the proper way.

  • What the proper way?

    The spindle spins correctly, its at its sweet spot, i'm just concerned about the length of three on one side showing..

  • did the BB come with the lock ring for the none drive side? That's what the extra thread is for.

    You'll need a 2 pin tool to get it fitted properly

  • Yeah lock ring is on.

    Yes I'm aware that it'll need a bit more of a turn on the drive side..

    However my concern is that there's lots of thread of no drive side(lock ring)

    The bb has no play and spins freely. It cannot be tightened anymore as the spindle will stop spinning. The drive side can be and will be but that will only cause even more thread to be on non drive side.

    So my question is is that amount of thread normal?

    Maybe got the wrong size of bb?

  • Maybe the spindle is for Italian threaded brackets.. I'm just guessing though as I don't know if there was a different in spindles too. But italian threaded brackets are 70mm width and BSA ones are 68mm, could be...

  • there shouldnt be a gap at the driveside.

    way to go: get it chased and faced at the lbs.
    second solution: put spacer inbetween driveside and bb shell. will solve gap and might bring your nds cup in a bit.
    could fuck up your chainline but hey.
    whats the bb? and also, whats the measured with of the bb shell? couldve been reamed a bit too much in its days..

  • Yeah I know that there shouldnt be a gap i just need to tighten it more.

    my concern is for the non driveside. Is that amount of thread normal?

    the bb is photographed in the first pages its a campy pista 68-120

    ill measure the shell tonight.

  • Again, drill the forks. It's a fork, not a ming vase. Why did the framebuilder ever build the forks if they are collecting dust in a corner? There is nothing wrong with a perfectly and correctly drilled brake hole.

  • Solved the bb problem!

    The seller on eBay sold me a mixture of cups and spindles so that's why it wasn't fitting correctly.

    Hopefully will find one soon.

    I'm thinking a gold or silver chain because the frame has a subtle gold colour what's your thoughts?

  • Restoration is about keeping it original or sympathetic to the period.
    Clamp on would be the best solution. Not pretty but very easily removed.
    Drilling in like removing the chimney breast in a period victorian property and throwing the cast iron fireplace in the skip never to be seen again.

  • A gold chain would be putrid. Please avoid at all costs!

  • +1!

    I'd go for one of the black or silver Wippermann chains for under a tenner

  • Is it just me or do all silver chains just end up black after riding for a week or so.

    Anyway, I vote silver, I use kmc z510's and have never had any issues

  • this comparison is as poor as it gets...

  • No. I wouldn't take much to get a poorer comparison. But like many things it's all subjective.

  • Bought one and its very heavy..

    Realised its the H so must be the heavy duty one..

  • Is it just me or do all silver chains just end up black

    It's just you

    Clamp on would be the best solution

    It would be A SOLUTION, not necessarily the best. If you don't see yourself ever running the bike brakeless then drill the forks - it's your bike after all.

    It's a fork, not a ming vase

    Personally I'd replace the forks with a pre-drilled road fork as these tend to look a little neater.
    I'd go chrome as (IMO) this will look best - carbon would be good, however you'd need 1 inch threaded fork or to replace the headset and stem and (IMO again) old carbon = dentist appointment

    Plus you'll need to get the new fork cut to length, and then road forks tend to have a longer rake on them which may alter your clearances too - so perhaps it may be easier to just drill the current fork

  • Yeah I have a few of the H ones, they are. They give me some confidence that they won't ever break on me though.

    You sorted cranks yet?
    https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/303856/#comment13597744

  • Hi Sean, what about a stainless chain, like one of these KMC jobs:

    http://kmcchain.us/chain/s10/

  • Hey guys I'll do a proper update soon,

    I've got cranks bb and headset so might do a mock build this weekend.

    Any idea on what bar tape and tyres I should go for?

    I'm thinking cinelli tennis bar tape in black and just cheap continentals.

  • Hey guys!
    So currently I have
    Campagnolo headset
    Pista bb
    Campy pista chainset with campy chainring (need chainring canpagnolo chainring bolts and chainset covers)
    Cinelli bars and stem
    Cinelli tennis bar tape black
    Campagnolo seatpost
    Titanium flite saddle
    Campagnolo 36h hubs(need some chrome box section rims)
    Kmc heavy chain


    6 Attachments

    • IMG_2702.JPG
    • IMG_2703.JPG
    • IMG_2704.JPG
    • IMG_2705.JPG
    • IMG_2706.JPG
    • IMG_2707.JPG
  • This is going to be a tidy build

  • What's the best polishing or cleaning methods for a scratched seatpost?

  • I like autosol

    Best stuff I've used anyway

  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Track Frame Project, maybe a Rourke? (it is a Rourke)

Posted by Avatar for seafish @seafish

Actions