Time Trial / Time Trialling / TT

We had to 3D print a spacer for the hidden bolt yep - the chainring is a bit thinner than a normal track ring. 138mm Q Factor when you ram the bolt down on the NDS, you really have to keep going as it's a tight fit

Zipp Vuka Alumina (the second set, after I stupidly sold the rest of the first to someone...)

Yep, that's the useless little bastard etrex mount. I've tried adding tape to the back of the GPS to make it a tighter fit but it doesn't help. Actually found one of the zip ties had broken today from twisting the device I guess when trying to press the buttons. PITA.

Also interested to know about the Arc ring as my Fibrelyte (now dead) had an issue with the 5th bolt hole presumably a thickness related issue. I had to put a very thin spacer between it and the crank or else the bolt was not tight and the ring went wonky (technical term).

had an issue with the 5th bolt hole presumably a thickness related issue. I had to put a very thin spacer between it and the crank

Shimming is part of the deal with Campag-style hidden fifth bolts, to take up the tolerance where the back of the crank is milled relative to the front of the spider tabs. All my UT cranks came with them, although they're not listed as a spare part or mentioned in the instructions. Obviously, most of my UT cranks got additional milling and in a prototyping set up it was easy enough to hold the tolerance required to eliminate the shims, because the part was jigged off the outside face of the spider tabs.

I put sugru under my pads on the use Tula. Been find since I did that. Rock solid.

There's nothing under my pads though, they're free to spin around the extensions. Or are you saying the grip from the sugru stopped them spinning, like carbon paste would?

Is there not the base bar under?
I put sugru in the gap between pad and base bar. Holds then solid.

Is there not the base bar under?

Hippy is rocking the -50mm position on this diagram. The pads have a long way to fall before they hit anything.

Ah okay.

If I wasn't so lazy with allen keys I'd try the -25 position which might stop the pads rotating too far.

Anyone got a single Dura Ace TT lever for sale perchance?

You tart - Are they any better than a SRAM 900 for example?

I have a 900 currently, with a DA on the HC bike. DA is definitely more confidence inspiring.

you mean brake lever or shift lever? Presume brake as you don't gear...

Yeah.

But it's broken. (it works but the gripper to hold it into the bars is weak so it rotates) :)

Or you can have two, but you have to buy the basebar they're attached to.

I'm not very helpful on Mondays am I?

Yeah brake.

But it's broken.

Out

I'm not very helpful am I

It was working on my bike, just turns around a bit. Just fucking glue it in. Job done.

What are you, chicken?

;-)

@Hippy @Scilly.Suffolk @umop3pisdn
Is there an alternative way of securing my Raltech cover to my wheel? I'm not concerned about it coming away, but clearances are a little tight in the P3C chainstays and moves around a little (especially over shitty surfaces)

I used those as well as electrical tape around the edge.

I've read of other people using zip-ties and/or double-sided tape but that wasn't for me.

I just use electrical tape instead of those, holds much better in my experience.
Although didn't work very well when taping to an alloy rim - works very well taping carbon.

Thanks guys - Problem is I'm on an Open Pro, so the cover literally stops at the brake track, so there's nowhere to secure with tape. Maybe I could experiment by buying some tubing and cutting it down to a smaller length than the original blue tubing/spacer...

What I'd really like is some kind of Hex/Torx fittings so I could adjust the effective width of the cover - But then the cover is probably too flimsy for this to have any sort of effect.

Hmm, these might work:
http://www.wheelbuilder.com/disc-cover-spare-hardware-package.html

Who has got/used an AeroJacket?

Me

#ofcoursehehas