Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

Brilliant image is brilliant

*IMpolite!

Not appreciating the oil leak I have :(

Proving real hard to nail it down. I'm dreading it being the cylinder head gasket.

It doesn't start weeping until I push the engine, so can't diagnose it on the driveway. And then when I get back, it's blown everywhere anyway.

Sucks - it's not the engine breather is it? Overfilled oil?

Nope to both. It's not appearing higher than the gasket cover.
I've got a few things to try first to see if it's them, when I've the time, and if it's none of those then it's pretty much the gasket.

I'll avoid stripping it down for as long as I can.

Definitely not the rocker cover gasket then ? If your water cooled and it's your cylinder head gasket it would be pretty obvious ( and bad news ). Might be worth just nipping up all the rocker cover bolts just in case. If it's bad you'd be finding it a touch more difficult to start on the button 'cause of dropped compression.
Hope it's not too serious

It's more a weep than a leak. So it's not bad, starts and runs fine.
Not the rocker cover, that's clean.

I've got a few things to try, so hope not lost. Just annoying it's hard to pin down, as it only weeps when I give it proper thrash.

My LC8 had an annoying weep - I think it was a pinched o ring in the spark plug tube. Was a bit of swarf in there. Took ages to diagnose.

That is annoying, definitely not leaking from there though for me.

It is a high maintenance bike the 990.

Background:
Bike: 2015 Scrambler EFI

• The bike was knocked over and there was damage to:
  o Speedo bracket
  o Clutch hand leaver
  o Clutch foot peg
  
• I replaced the clutch foot peg two weeks ago, and I can’t remember but I’m sure I started the bike after to check it all worked. It hasn’t been run since though.
  
• I can’t remember when but at some point I took the speedo off to work out what to do about it and put it back on, all plugged in.
  
• Last week I put the missing gaitors back on by taking the calliper, wheel, mudguard (fender) off then sliding the shocks out and putting it all back together.
  
• Today I replaced the bent aftermarket clutch hand leaver with a non-OEM stock one.
  
• After installing I went to check the adjustment and tried to start the bike, but it wouldn’t start.
  
• I have plugged in an optimate.
  
  

Problem:
Bike won’t start.
I turn the key in the ignition, hold the clutch down, press the ignition switch nothing happens – there is no noise, and it doesn’t turn on.
When turning the key the starter lights come on as they should but the Engine Management System Malfunction Indicator Light(?) comes on and stays on. Although thinking about it I’m sure it’s always on until the engine turns over.

Question:
Any ideas?
Or more to the point where do I start to identify what the actual issue is.
I have a volt meter (which I need to remember how to use). I have a Haynes manual - which I also need to work out how to use, it doesn’t feel very intuitive.

other possibly(?) relevant info
No side stand.
I don’t know if this is of any significance, but the front right indicator wasn’t working and the rear right was blinking at the wrong speed. I Noticed the right wing mirror mount wasn’t straight, so I straightened it and made sure all the connections were tight and the combination resolved.

Cheers!

Is there a kill switch on the handlebar? Check that's not off and the wiring is OK.

This. Almost certainly the kill switch got knocked.

Usually the side stand needs to be up engaging the side stand switch. On some bikes the gearbox needs to be in neutral but usually not if you need to operate the clutch. The EMS light usually stays on until the engine is running, if you have abs that light usually stays on until you are doing 3-5 mph.

Wonky indicators points towards low battery.

First ride on this little lady in over a year due to life. Forgot home much of a rocketship it is.

First ride on this little lady in over a year due to life. Forgot home much of a rocketship it is.

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looks good in the sun.

Felt good too, was cautious about working the engine after standing for a while but warmed up a bit longer than normal. Only took it to 10k (15.5k redline) but forgot how capable and harsh it is. Makes me almost think I'm getting too old for silly sports bikes.

In lewisham today.

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Looks rad. What a lovely day for it too.

Reminds me of that fgg pinarello crossed with this:

It turns out it was the cut out switch on the clutch. Still confused how levers that were meant to be compatible interferes with a fundamental part of the clutch.

Thinking of moving from the SV to this as a general shoot 'em up fun twisties bike.

07 ybr 125 injection

Bastard electrical gremlins again
Got a bad tank of fuel, mostly water, removed tank and fuel pump to drain it, was very bad. Then wouldn't start, must have bumped the coil with tank and killed it, had gone "open" state.
Today got new coil (pattern part with suspicious thin ht lead, but resistances checked out), new cap and hey presto (old coil and new cap was also a no start) started and idled like a boss, low rev response was better than normal etc.
10 mins later....
Cuts out as change down gear, and randomly when warm at maintenance throttle or overrun.
Let bike cool and your fine for 10 mins then it does it again. The hotter the bike gets the more frequent it cuts out.
To restart have to turn key off and back on, just bumping it won't restart (no spark)

Ecu gives fault code 33 = ignition coil (code cleared before new coil fitted and it gave this code when it broke last time). Resistance on the coil still checks out (cold on the bench)

So will put a fresh plug on it in the morning, but tbh I think it's either a duff new coil (changed between various spare caps (resistor and non resistor) and all had same result) or more £££ a cdi/ecu.
Any thoughts?
Also voltage drop tested all earth's and feeds, were healthy, no wiggly connection or broken wires evident (poked the shit out if them).

Check when warm as coils can breakdown under load/heat.

Looks like another cafe racer bmw. Meh

@chak don't think you'd be disappointed, it feels like a full fat sports bike that's been on a strict diet and down the gym compared to previous models. I've got the homologated ZX6-RR (600cc) version but the easier to find ZX6-R (636cc) is arguably more useable (& wheelie-able) on the road. One reason to stay clear might be if you're very tall, I'm 6ft1" and can be a slight squeeze folding my legs up.