Home DIY

They look epic and the yellow ones are rated to 142kg!

Ordered along with a spade bit.

Thanks.

They're the first plasterboard fixing I've used where I can really tighten the screw without feeling it's about to strip. It's actually the 20mm brown they recommend for cabs although I used yellow in our bathroom (I think its pan head vs sunk screws). If you can't swap pm your address and I'll send ya some, we have a selection pack.

Edit: actually yellow might be best or it'll be visible on the edge of the cabs...

They should arrive tomorrow. I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks.

@inchpincher would those gripit fixings work for a bike rack?

Oh - I actually invested in them on Crowdcube.

Due diligence? What due diligence?

pffft DD! Who needs it...

Funnily enough I wasted this morning wondering about investing too, 6 days left of the latest fundraising, sadly no disposable £ at the moment. I think it's a good bet once they hit the States, copies are already on eBay though. Deffo good for a bike rack, there's not much weight to a bike and most of it fulcrums close to the wall.

Hi all. I need to cut a 40mm solid beech worktop with the end to fit against a wall which curves out - probs about 30mm longer at the back than the front. I need to use my router for this, using incrementally deeper cuts, right? Freehand cut will not end well I imagine.

Writing this I think I just figured out that I should scribe the curve onto a piece of ply and use that as a guide for the router. Is that right? Cheers

I'd draw directly onto the tabletop with a scribe compass and then cut it with a jigsaw with a quality blade. Or do it on a scrap piece of ply first, cut it out, make sure it fits perfectly and then transfer to the tabletop and jigsaw away.

Scribing is definitely the way forward.

I keep reading that jigsaws will inevitably wander on a thick piece of solid worktop though - is that not your experience?

Anyone done any decking? If so, where did you buy materials from? What you you do/not do again?

Haven't had that problem no. Thickest I've done has been 35mm oak.

I've done a boy at work. Next time I'll go for decent hardwood, instead of cheap pressure treated stuff. Wears too quick and half the boards were crooked. Plastic spacer shims were great for getting even spacing. A quality mitre saw is also nice to have at hand.

Brilliant piece of autocorrect. I've done a bit at work...

What does that first sentence mean?
ah

https://youtu.be/i6c4Nupnup0

Etc :D

Have mitre saw, will chop. Trying to decide where to shop, what width/length of boards to go for etc.

Did some planning today. L-shaped deck (so a more complex frame) about 8m2 and the materials from Wickes are about £500. Does that sound ridiculous?

This radiator needs to move to the left a bit. The pipes go off to another radiator which is no longer needed and then loop back.

The LH connection will become the RH connection. Can I just loop the ends with PVC push fit and make a new connection for the LH? So the water is flowing the other direction through the radiator? And is it necessary to drain the system or can I just bung it? Spillage it not an issue.

1 Attachment

Not a fan of Wickes timber.
No branch of Travis Perkins, (owner of Wickes), nearby?
I get the impression that TP, who have a history as timber importers, push lesser quality / near rejects out through Wickes.

Any recommendations for a brand of underfloor heating mat/controllers? And wattage? Approx 25m2 room under a mix of engineered wood and tile. Will be for winter comfort, two other rads in the room (though lots of glass at one end so does get cold...). Ta.

I'm pulling drywall down between 4 rooms to turn them into 5 rooms.

I have isolated the circuits with all the switches and sockets from the board + checked all with non-contact pen. Got a Bosch D-tect 120 also to check for any hidden nasties.

I just removed the first face plate from socket and removed the cables and managed to trip the main switch on the board.

Is there anything I might have missed or could this happen by the cables touching each other going through the hole on the drywall socket?

P.S. I'm getting a registered sparky in to redo all the connections in a couple weeks time.

@Airhead perhaps?

Cheers.

Yes, I don't find jigsaws cope well with 40mm hardwood worktop. i would make a template and use a router.