Ritchey Breakaway Titanium CX

I'm thinking duraace 7900 with medium cage ultegra 6700 rear derailleur. I have a cx50 crankset, or compact 7900 crankset to go with.

Selle Italia super flow saddle and lizardskin bar tape.

Yup.

Some TI bits arrive:

those are some ugly spacers .. dont force the Ti

They were cheap, so I thought why not give it a go!
I've got carbon spacers, but might look a bit disjointed with a silver stem.

Temp bars and stem, need to find a 31.8 Braze on clamp in my spares somewhere.

Next decision: 7900 cranks, R700 silver cranks, cx50 silver cranks, or 7800 standard cranks

Also the setback on the seatpost is way too far back and fake Titanium colour, will look better with silver I think.

Keep the dura ace

Silver stuff looks gash with ti bruv - gotta be gun-metal or black.

I've got a medium cage ultegra 6700 at the back for now, thinking maybe a 9 speed XTR derailleur at the back for easy 11-32 shifting, worth doing?

If you can't find the clamp, I am selling one, unfortunately not ti though...

Nice build, looking forward to seeing the finished machine

Mock up with ritchey comp stem (175g, really heavy!) and Chinese carbon post. Will try and find a ritchey wcs stem or pro vibe stem.
Going to see what it looks like with silver components in next few days as a comparison before cabling up.

Looking good, but please insert silver spokes!

Not sure why I got black spokes, didn't specifically choose them that way!

That's sick!!

I don't mind the black spokes. I think they play well with the overall colour scheme of the frame/fork, crankset etc.

My observations from a trial at cabling it up:

1) Canti hangers on a small frame are a pain to cable up
2) Cabling up canti brakes need about 3 pairs of hands
3) The front cantis are shuddering a bit, I'm assuming thats normal and I will need to toe in the pads?
4) Right shifter is buggered, which means I'll have to take it off and use a spare
5) Luckily, as I haven't installed the quick disconnect splitters yet, not quite as painful

I have another 7900 shifter that is mechanically fine, but visually poor. Anyone know how easy it might be to change the brake arm?

I have canti brakes on one of my cross bikes and they shudder all the time, regardless of the pads being toe in or not...

I blame my shit rims and pads

Is that fork drilled? If so, fit a fork-mounted hanger, that'll take care of 1) and 3).

there's a definite knack to setting up cantis-best way I found was to put something about as thick as a beermat between blocks and rim then you can push against that to set up the arm angles, then do the same to set up the cables.

Once you've done that everything should be perfectly aligned and its just a case of finding the sweet spot on the straddle length/height for maximum braking power.

Looking nice anyway...

The pads are Swissstops so should be ok, going to try loads of toe-in.

There's a bit of play in the canti arms, I'm guessing that's normal?

Spent the weekend tidying the garage, some electrical work and sorting out bike storage:

And managed to find my bag of cable offcuts so mostly built it up, awaiting test ride!

Why are you splitting the front brake?

For shuddering cantis best bet is to go from steerer mount to fork mount -Did this to my Dad's Tricross, he said it made him re-fall in love with it

EDIT: Don't know how feasible that will be on with bike with the decouplers and all

2 reasons, the shifter was broken so when replacing I just chopped the cable above the brake to save time. Also the canti yoke doesn't unhook, and I can't unclamp either straddle wire or brake cable and pull through without removing the cable ends.