Any question answered...

Hi everyone, help needed!

So I'm putting together a bike that has higher number of carbon parts than I've ever dealt with. At this stage, I'm finding particularly challenging to decide on the carbon fork steerer length.

I believe with carbon steerer, there should always be a spacer on top of the stem, is that correct? If so, I'm using a compression plug (pic 1), and with the spacer on top of the stem, the spacer takes full heigth of the first aluminum bit (pic 2).

Now when I assemble this whole things together (pics 3,4,5), it appears that the compression plug only maybe reaches the middle of the lower stem bolt (or slightly higher). My understanding of the compression plug for carbon steerer was that it's function is to protect the streerer from clamping force of the stem (also headset preload). Question - with my setup, is the compression plug doing its job of should I get a different - taller one?

Thanks!

Pics

My understanding of the compression plug for carbon steerer was that it's function is to protect the streerer from clamping force of the stem

If that's what your fork manufacturer says...

In practice, all my carbon forks are surviving just fine with a thin (6mm height) bonded-in plug roughly in the middle of the stem. I wouldn't have any concerns about using the set up you've illustrated.

This would obviously also be a good time to point out that you can get a stem cap with an integrated spacer to tidy up the area on top of the stem :)

Thanks

I wouldn't know re: manufacturer recomendations, as the fork came with the frame, and both of them were produced in China... However you may have a point re: setup, as the plug came with the head set with the frame. My question was also regarding the spacer above the stem, am I correct in assuming there should be a spacer?

Thanks for the offer on those caps, I'll give it a thought :)

My question was also regarding the spacer above the stem, am I correct in assuming there should be a spacer?

Yes, life is much better if the steerer passes all the way trough the stem, so you need a spacer if you use a conventional top cap. It doesn't need to be much, so if you find a 2.5mm spacer you can trim the steerer even more and use that instead of the 5mm one you have at the moment.

thanks!

Anyone have any top tips for removing old and particularly stubborn rim tape?

Hair dryer to soften the glue up a little?

Thanks, will give that a go.

New bike time

Always

Is there a thing I can put into a 46 mm ID BB shell to make my ultra torque system eccentric?

UT is so esoteric, nobody makes one yet.

If you can measure the UT bearing we can see if that matches an existing EBB closely enough.

Apparently UT uses the same 37 x 25 x 6mm bearings as Shimano HT2 BBs:
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12867607

I've just built an SSMTB 29er using the WheelsMfg BB30 EBB, bought from SigmaSport:
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/ebb/ebb-bottom-brackets/eccentric-bottom-bracket-for-bb30-24mm-shimano-cranks-red.html

That uses these bearings, which have the same dimensions as the standard 6805 bearing, 7mm wide:
http://wheelsmfg.com/enduro-24-x-37-angular-contact-2rs-sealed-bearing.html

WheelsMfg's non-Eccentric BB for Ultra Torque uses Delrin cups
http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb30/bb30-adapters/bb30-adapter-for-campagnolo-cranks.html

Whether you can modify "24mm" BB30 EBBs to work with UT's crank-mounted bearings is going to depend on the spacing between the bearings in a normal UT BB and the EBB.

If you can measure the UT bearing

UT bearings are thin, 25mm ID 37mm OD but only 6mm thick, not 7mm like a normal 6805. If the shell adapter is made for 37mm OD and 7mm thick bearings, a shim will be required to move the bearing outwards 1mm each side so that the inner race doesn't interfere with the circlip on the half axle. The other problem with adapting any other 37mm bearing housing to UT is that the UT bearings are a sliding fit in the housing and pressed on the axle, the opposite of HT2 and GXP, so the housing ID needs to be slightly larger.

Assuming the bearing spacing is appropriate, where I'm headed is machining the EBB so you can fit a Delrin liner in it.

What I'd actually do is buy Shimano cranks.

Does anyone have any experience with these cranks:
144bcd and the chainring is included for 38€.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/MIC-PISTA-48T-Einzel-Geschwindigkeit-Fester-gang-Fixie-Bahnrad-Kurbelgarnitur-/322174369321?var=&hash=item4b0316be29:m:mpaYVF9gEVkA7BxREM67cMw

where I'm headed is machining the EBB so you can fit a Delrin liner in it.

So in the opposite direction to where I'd go, since I strongly disapprove of inserting plastic between the bearings and the BB shell :)

How about removing the bearings from the EBB and make a hole with BSA threading to accept the standard campag cups?
As if I was capable of doing that? :(

Does anyone have any experience with these cranks

If I could see the back of them, I'd probably be able to answer. If they're not made by TH Industries or SunRace, I'd be quite surprised :)

How about removing the bearings from the EBB and make a hole with BSA threading to accept the standard campag cups?

The hole the bearings are in is probably bigger than the pilot bore for 1.37" threads.

46mm is small for an eccentric, even with 1.37" threads the eccentricity can't be more than about 2.5mm, so you wouldn't have enough adjustment to take up a whole pair of chain links, or even a half link, so you'd still be stuck with using somewhat magic gears.

The WheelsMfg unit cheats by having the eccentric in two halves, with the OD of the bearings overlapping the ID of the shell. The problem with this is that there is no positive register to keep the bearings concentric with one another, so the eccentric loadings might pull the two halves out of line, leading to high friction and short bearing life. Anybody who has used a lot of pad stack on a 3T Ventus knows that two 75mm long bolts won't stop the two ends of an assembly from rotating with respect to one another :)

46mm eccentric housing for BSC threaded cups, 3.5mm eccentricity. There's no mechanism to stop it rotating apart from being clamped on the ends by a small section of the cups.

1 Attachment

Looks like ones that I've used branded as Sturmey Archer, good for the money

Looks like ones that I've used branded as Sturmey Archer

That was my first thought, which led me down the SunRace path, but they are not exactly the same.

Thanks for the input, maybe i'll give them a try!

I've got a frame that comes with brake cable stops that have an internal diameter equal to brake outer (5mm). Are these designed to be used without any kind of ferrule? Won't that make the brake feel spongy as well as letting the cable get exposed to dirt? I've been browsing SJS but can't find a stepped ferrule that would be suitable.

Sounds like it has continuous/ full housing routing.