Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Dafuq... how are these brakes making a tsk tsk tsk scraping noise that stops when lightly touching the levers?

Can I bend this pad spring in some way to hold the pads in or out more?

Disc brakes should be sold with headphones. It's enough to make you want to ride SRAM.

LOLz

No harm in trying, I've bent a few springs in my time.

I've bent a few springs in my time.

I bet you say that to all the boys.

#fuckingdiscswtffuckfuckfuckmeh

You got to bend the rotor not the pad

Can I bend this pad spring...

It depends: are your brakes GXP or Zero Stack?

I get that the rotor moving is likely causing a rub but why is there a noise when the brakes are off, that is reduced when they're on? It's like the pads are loose and maybe sitting crooked and when the pistons move in, they straighten the pads out so they no longer touch the disc.
I need a closer look at what's going on. Upgrade time...

You want me to send you those cranks? You can have a go at IDing them.

They come cursed though.

When I've had this problem the rotor was a bit bent, and squeezing the brake just lightly touched it to the rotor evenly through its rotation which stopped the 'tsk tsk'. I realised when it occurred to me that the 'tsk tsk' would be more frequent if it was the pads, on mine it was basically once a rotation, and as the pads stay still and the rotor rotates, it made sense it was the rotor having a kink. You can true a rotor with the a spanner.

Ok, I'll have a closer look at the disc. Thanks.

Take the rotor off and lay it on a flat surface.

It's CL so I think its 'spider' will get in the way.

Flat surface with a hole in the middle then

@hippy the issue may be that when the pads are released (brake off), the rotor is hitting the calliper body slightly. when you brush the brake the pads bend the rotor away from the calliper body, hence no tsk tsk tsk shiz. Might be worth realigning the calliper on the mounts.

"What are you doing with that drill and our dining table, darling?"
"The forum made me do it!"

Might be worth realigning the calliper on the mounts.

Yeah, I did that before the commute this morning. Just makes a slightly different scraping noise :)

I need more time to pull the pads out and have a closer look. Not crashing the wheel would also help. While I'm doing it I'm going to grind off those fucking lawyer tabs as well.

Misbehaving bike parts, power tools and a short temper: oh to be a fly on the wall...

You don't even need to be inside. Most of the neighbours can tell you when I'm working on bikes...

What's the deal with metal pads being twice the price of resin pads now?

I paid £22 for a set of L04C and they're now over £30 whereas the L02A resin pads are under a tenner.

Anyone know what durability is likely to be between the two? ie. will I get twice the life from metal?

I've got a brand new and unused RS505 caliper for sale if anyone wants it.

£35 posted

For riding in the UK, unless you only ever go out in bone dry weather, then they probably will last twice as long. Sintered aren't as quiet but will work consistently.

In saying that, I did the KLMTB race at Thetford and destroyed a pair of pads in the rear in 1 lap due to the sand/mud mix and a slightly bent rotor. They had only done 3 dry rides before that. I'm trying out the überbike sintered pads - £7 a pair or £23 for 4 pairs with free postage.

I found them a bit cheaper at bike24 in Germany and was ordering other stuff from them so bought a set of metal pads. Just seemed weird that metal went up in price and resin fell.

Are there any good 3rd-party companies doing pads for Shimano road discs yet?

Resin is adequate, that's for both commuting and polo duty.

Oh, I know. I currently have resin pads in the front. I wore a set out during TCR though (4-5000k) so for TABR, which is 6700k I'd like a set that last the whole race, hence metal. Also, less frequent changes = fewer chances for me to get angry with bike and destroy calipers in a rage.

After grinding off the lawyer lugs last night I listened for the noise, spotted which side it was happening on and then used my Motherfucking He-Man Strength™ to bend the rotor enough that it shut the hell up. Result!

I did notice a little noise still but only when I cornered to the right. In normal riding it's silent. Guess the forks are flexing a bit. I could bend it more but why push my luck?

Fair play.

But sintered do sometimes squeal/ screech at low speeds, can you live with that? ;)