Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Cool, thanks.

Chris white (ridefar.info) mentions the xr31t can be a pain with tubeless tyres on an offset rim. Do you have any experience of that?

Also, what spokes would you recommend?

Cheers

what spokes would you recommend?

We should have a FAQ at the beginning of this thread so that people would not keep asking.

For general purpose wheels, any 14/15/14 or 14/16/14 double butted stainless steel spoke from a reputable manufacturer will do. Forum favourites are DT, Sapim and ACI, but there is no reason to believe that Pillar or CN won't do the job just as well if that's what your local shop has.

Ok, thanks - appreciated.

I'm still looking for a suggestion for a 16h black front hub.

Using ERD measurement means you dont need to know rim thickness. use spokecalc you don't need to know this and spoke lengths come out right every time.

You can try using a 32H hub for a 16H rim. The difference in spoke length is not likely to be large enough to cause a problem. Could be wrong though never tried this. I have done a 12H hub into a 24H rim and those wheels are fine, I ride them. spoke lengths were uneffected in reality, even though some predicted doom.

no tubeless tyres fit just as tightly to XR31T as to the asymmetric XR31RT . I think ridefar.info thinks a tubeless tyre that is a tight fit is a problem but that is how you want it. Tyres vary a bit and it is that variation he may have noticed and blamed it on the rim. I dont know the sample size he is commenting on.

Planet X?

You can try using a 32H hub for a 16H rim. The difference in spoke length is not likely to be large enough to cause a problem.

If you're lacing "radial", there won't be any difference in spoke length, but the spokes won't be truly radial, one side will be pulling and the other side will be pushing, which means the hub shell will have a permanent torsional stress in it. Like many bodges, it probably won't kill you, but if you have any sense of mechanical beauty it will annoy you :)

And if it's a Hope TiGlide or Airlite, the two sides might line up for you eventually, slackening all your spokes.

still looking for a suggestion for a 16h black front hub

White Industries T11 and Chris King R45 both fit the bill, but if you don't want to foot the bill you could always find a lightly used Shimano WH-RS30 or WH-RS20 front wheel and steal the hub from it. RS21/31/330 would work too, but the front hubs are clumsy looking compared with the old wheels and the spokes are not truly radial, they are in adjacent push/pull pairs.

Exactly he can try it knowing it not perfect. He may also find it looks radial even if its not strictly 0x. For the cost of a novatec a171 hub it might be worth a try. Of course royce do 16h drillings solving the problem.

Typing 16h hub into ebay gets results. There is some bloke with 16h dura ace hubs. I thinkmi sold them to him a couple of years back.

He may also find it looks radial even if its not strictly

It will probably end up looking like a Shimano RS31. Those things freak me out every time I see them :)

Thats cockeyed. It wont be that bad. Tempted to try it with a 32h rim just to see and be proved wrong.

Any thoughts about Novatec A186sbt/A185sbt, rear/front, 32h? I was thinking about Laser/D-light, 3x, 12mm nipples. Can I go wrong with this?

Tempted to try it with a 32h rim just to see and be proved wrong

Let me save you the trouble:

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Any thoughts about Novatec A186sbt/A185sbt, rear/front, 32h?

They are #tester_approved but Lasers/D-Lights aren't because they are pointless. Use Sapim Race or some other general purpose double butted spoke.

Super, I will go with Novatec. Just a curiosity, why are those spokes pointless? I try to learn/curiosity only. Too thin? Thanks!

why are those spokes pointless?

Negligible benefit compared with the increased cost.

Could this be the old MIG 70 with 15mm axle instead of the newer superior 17mm version as described in http://blog.fairwheelbikes.com/reviews-and-testing/hub-review/

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old version with a 15mm axle (silver end caps) vs. the current with a 17mm (black end caps)

Thanks

cockeyed worth a thought to see the foolishness.

Lasers save a bit of weight. D-lights save less weight over the laser compared to the race spoke so D-lights are pointless. Laser are useful for a front wheel. For rear wheels they can be used but they hurt my hands stress relieving so I dont like using much on the rear. Also you need to up the spoke count, use a stiffer rim e.t.c to compensate for the loss of stiffness over using race spokes.

you save about 70g over using race spokes with the laser/D-light combo and given the weight of a fixed gear wheel that adds up to not a lot.

cockeyed

It looks bad as a drawing, but as soon as you're a bit off axis it's hard to tell that it's not truly radial. I still wouldn't want the hub shell wind up, but aesthetically it's OK.

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It looks o.k now. How did you draw that up?

How did you draw that up?

http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview