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• #81277
No, I meant is it just Mavic wheels that need the spacers in a particular order?
With the Power Tap and Fulcrum wheels I've had my hands on, I couldn't see that it made any difference.
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• #81278
Does anyone have any advice on how to remove an oily, greasy, curry stain out of a linoleum floor?
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• #81279
Do Marathon Supreme go on in a particular direction?
The tread suggests so but no indication that I could spot.
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• #81280
I run mine in the aesthetically pleasing direction.
No fires reported as yet. -
• #81281
With the point of the arrow pointing forwards?
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• #81282
Is it actually lino or vinyl flooring?
I don't have a solution but that difference would be critical in your approach. -
• #81283
yep
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• #81284
Get a piece of baltic birch, always stronger per thickness than regular ply.
Do not even consider mdf, it is not structural. -
• #81285
I quite like the idea of a varnished or Danish oiled wood with some nice stainless coach bolts.
The steps are fine. It doesn't get heavy use. But I'd like to be able to use it with confidence.
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• #81286
I quite like the idea of a varnished or Danish oiled wood with some nice stainless coach bolts.
The only right thing to do.
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• #81287
I've never not been able to ride a bike when it's a tube strike day, so as a strike noob: when it says it ends at 6pm, will I be able to catch a train at 6.10?
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• #81288
my theory is arrow forward, because it forces the excess water along the outward threads out. only works for forward riding though..;)
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• #81289
Don't think so.
Normally it is the next day before normal service is resumed.
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• #81290
Everyone else will have that plan.
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• #81291
Oh yep, you're right. The stations that are open will close at 1900 on Monday. Dis not gun be good.
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• #81292
Thank you
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• #81293
Cheers.
Seems a bit excessive, but I guess it's just a small piece, so shouldnt be a fortune.
I guess in a way any work on it is sort of excessive. But it's useful and has some sentimental value.
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• #81294
You'll never regret doing a good job on it.
If you go the ply route maybe replace the steps too, if solid wood then try to emulate what's on there already.
Finish with a nice matte oil. -
• #81295
Without trying to sound like too much of a wanker...
The steps have their own charm I think, and they're in good nick. I was going to use a darker stain/product on the top to get close to the steps colour (but not worry about a true colour match).
The plan is to give it a good clean, but not repaint it or anything as I think its all part of its character.
So just new top, clean, wax steps, new plastic feet caps, and some little sticky-backed rubber bumpers(?) for where the metal makes contact when it folds.
I may have been watching too much drew pritchard.
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• #81296
Cheers, point of the arrow forward it is.
Generally tubes don't get sorted out until the next day. They're in the wrong place and take a while to get going.
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• #81297
I think that as long as your top step is at least as thick as your smaller steps and of ply or solid wood you'll be okay. If solid wood have the grain running east to west for strength as per the smaller steps in your pic above.
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• #81298
Thanks
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• #81299
Pragmatism prevailed, and I have ordered a pair of the hi-viz Yellow ones
as the drivers out here in outer west London need all the help they can handle to see me in the gloomy, murky Wintery dusk.
I phoned, (Cycle Clothes, 01424 854411), to check the difference in 'weatherproofness' between these, the nodder-edition, and the ninja black ones, and was told 'not a lot'.
Looking forward to dry feet/10.
Thanks again for the link.
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• #81300
Fair enough, and no worries! Hope they work out well for you, did my first ride for ages without them yesterday and got cold, wet, muddy feet :(
Can you post a photo?
12mm might be OK, but would benefit from some kind of brace. I'd probably use a piece of 20mm solid plank and no upholstry.
Are the steps strong enough?