Knife porn thread

Maybe that could explain a little chip and scuff on the bottom edge of several secondhand opinels I've seen for sale.

Some people cut a slot out of the handle so they can prise the blade out with their fingertips, daft when you can just do this...

Spam alert..
Was digging through one of my toolboxes and uncovered this hatchet/cleaver type thing. Handy for splitting wood, chopping meat or anything else you can think of. I believe it's original use is splitting wood as the curved back can be hit with a bit of wood to drive it through the log.
Blade is around 5mm thick, it's bloody sharp at the moment but could benefit from a little more work if you wanted it to be fully polished all over. Handle is tight but could do with a spot of wax.
£20 collected seems about right. Due to its stabbiness I'd rather deal in person than stick it in the post if I don't already know you.

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New fruit knife from Kanetsune.

Sheath is crap and fits loosely — anyone got tips to improve fit? Currently tried paper shim but that won't last long ...

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Might interest some, my colleague Toby is making file knives in his spare time

https://youtu.be/uRm4mNkTNlc

I was lucky enough to receive a very lovely Japanese knife this Christmas. Now, what do I do to look after it? I can't seem to find any concensus on chef/knife forums, should I be honing it like I would a regular stainless steel knife, or is that a big no no?

Dry it immediately after use or it might flash rust, I wouldn't use a steel hone, just a whetstone when you feel it's losing its razor sharpness, maybe once a month if you're using a lot, I do it about three times a year if I can be arsed. Don't use it in a herb chopping rocking action where you pin the tip to the board and then see-saw the blade because this stresses the edge and can chip the brittle metal. Do you know what the blade is made from? Pics please!
Ps. I'm sure you know this one but never put it near a dishwasher!

From where would this blade need to be collected?

Does brittleness not depend on rockwell scale? I.e. if it's made of a softer steel you've got some leeway?

I've just been given an 800/5000 grain stone to keep my Ferraby in trim with. I'm going to learn how to use it with an old carving knife before I put the new blade anywhere near it.

Using a clip on angle guide makes it very easy to tune up on a waterstone

Walthamstow, E17.

As I recall Japanese knives have a different sharpening angle to European knives?

Ah, found it. Japanese at 17 degrees, European/US at 20 degrees.

You have a pm.

I think it does to an extent but the core material is important, high carbon steels are more brittle. Plus a really sharp edge digs into the chopping board and if you then twist it you'll get a bunch of micro chips as I found out to my cost.

800/5000 is about right, I've got a 1000/6000 but I find the jump tough, might invest in a transition stone when I can be arsed.

Cheers for the info. I have been drying it after every use, and originally feared I might be being a little over zealous, but good to know I was doing the necessary thing. It's a Masamoto VG 10, the blade reads 'Hyper-Molybdenum-Vanadium', which I must admit I'm none the wiser for.

Time to brush up on the whetstone skills. Im used to using the functional and more budget friendly Victorinox offerings, so want to treat this one with a little more respect.

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Will Ferraby is doing a knife giveaway this month, check his Facebook or Instagram accounts for details if you fancy winning a paring knife.

Ha. Was just coming here to post that. It even matches the chefs knife I got for Christmas :)

That's a sweet gyoto, nice gift! It's an unclad stainless steel so you won't have problems with rust but it's still best practise to regularly dry knives between use.

MY japanese knife has developed a little bit of rusting. I read somewhere about using cheap coffee to sort it, any other tips/tricks?

Try baking powder mixed with a bit of water. Cover rust and leave for 10 mins. Gently scrub off

I use one of these jobbies from the JKC, £10 iirc. It's basically a rubber with imbedded grit. Works great on rust and stains but be a bit careful if you have a Kurouchi (rough iron clad) finish as it can remove some making it look uneven or likewise a mirror finished polished knife it will leave scratches if rubbed too hard.
Another tip I was given in a shop was to tear a dish cloth into a long 10cm strip, roll it up tight and gaffer tape the middle. Then when you're finished using a whetstone, mop up all the slurry goodness and use it to remove stains and rust in the future.

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Picked these guys up while in Tokyo last week. Went for stainless for ease of care but I think the handles are unfinished. Walnut and magnolia wood. What's the best oil to use on these? I use Osmo Polyx (food safe) on all my furniture work so that'd be my go-to...

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cant believe this video has reason to exist

Love that Nakiri, sometimes I wish mine had a rounded tip so I could use it exclusively.
I'd think any food grade oil will be fine, I picked up some linseed oil I think to finish some oak magnetic knife racks I've made which would probably work.

I chose an Osaka style tip mainly for aesthetics but it's probably a bit more practical too. Enjoyed chopping an apple this morning. Good tools are good.