Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

I run my 28's at 50 PSI rear, 45 PSI front, I'm currently 82kg.

I check the pressure roughly every two days, and they've normally dropped by roughly what I'd expect a latex tube to drop in that time (~5 PSI).

Losing the inner tube drops rolling resistance (it is my understanding) by removing the friction between inner and outer, and allowing a lower pressure (not sure on the mechanics of this latter part, but I am sure someone else will be).

less rolling resistance, but the sealant adds a bit back, the more sealant = the more resistance, so you can scrimp to save weight and roll faster. Pump no more often than butyl tubes apart from the first 24 hours after fitting new tyres. They keep fine, just remember the sealant will need to be replaced every 6 months.

alright, stans alpha 340 any good? road rim brake usage.

Excellent, a £2.5k solution for a non-existent problem.

Punctures are a figment of my imagination? Golly.

That kit looks mental.

What about a cut that you can't fix with poking something through a hole?
Then you have to get it to reinflate and stick to the rim with a hand pump.

Nope, if they happened every ride I would be with you, in a year of 40 mile commutes I had 2 punctures.

I know I am a complete Luddite, but out of curiosity does a good tubeless tyre plus the necessary sealant weigh more or less than a standard one of similar quality with a tube?

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/road-bike-tubeless-sealant

How big is the tyre? Saves a nice amount of weight in 30-40c tyres with normal butyl tubes, but I guess with latex and a race tyre wouldn't be that much of a saving, if any

Stop eating cake.

Where's @frank9755 to explain why he was riding the TCR at 30psi...

:)

decent track pump

TABR. I will not have a track pump.

So, limited tyre choice, I already have tubeless ready rims and I won't have a track pump. Then what?

Good question. Anyone got Crr data for tubeless vs. tubed equiv?

GP4000SII vs. one of those Scwalbe Pro One that everyone raves about perhaps?

EDIT:
ONE tubeless is 0.4W better than GP4000SII
PRO ONE tubeless is 1.2W better than GP4000SII

But " I have monitored the air pressure of the new Pro One with 20 ml of sealant over a 48-hour period and it dropped from 110 psi to 100 psi."

There's no way I'd use them for TABR if they're losing air like latex tubes would.

http://www.tour-magazin.de/komponenten/reifen/breite-reifen-im-vergleichstest/a29743.html

Keyword here is breit = intoxicated.

Bit of superglue on the cut, pump tyre back up. I've also seen someone stuff a bit of latex glove into a cut, melt it with a lighter and then reinflate.

If you do need to remount the tyre for some reason, presumably you'll have CO2

Thanks Sumo, I gave that a slightly less than thorough read but will return to it later.

A fair summary would seem to be that there is very little weight difference between tubed and tubeless, but I'm only giving up about 2 Watts of rolling resistance on the 'fast' tyres I normally use (I don't care about my winter tyres as I convince myself they add extra training).

No, I don't carry CO2.

My general experience with Stan's in Bontrager mtb tyres is that they lose pressure even slower than butyl tubes, but I don't know if that translates well to high pressures or different tyres. My sealant has also stayed liquid for well over a year, but I keep the mountain bike outside, so the cold probably helps there

Then I guess you stick a tube in it and carry on, so that's no different to a normal clincher setup

If you can get it to inflate and stick to the rim, which gets us back to the problem people seem to have with mounting them.

Has this been resolved yet?

Yeah that sounds about right. The main thing is with tubeless you just don't get pinhole punctures, it takes a proper slash to get through. So you can ride nice, light racing tyres without worryingly about stopping at the side of an A road in 3 degree rain changing a tube.