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Are they? Nice...
In a rear wheel (any) you want the holes to be towards the non drive side. In a front disc wheel you want the opposite.
If you have a fixed/SS bike with a 120 mm rear hub you don't want asymmetric rims
simple, really
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Pic of this archetype. Took delivery of more this week and they are not offset.
the design of the archetype rim means the holes are centre drilled. The fact the outer spoke holes are staggered does not mean this is an offset rim. You cannot lace this rim the wrong way round.
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Any ideas on a budget-friendly option for a 11 speed 26 inch mtb disc brake wheelset? Has to be QR. Thinking of a little project. Thanks
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MTB cassette mate, SRAM NX to be exact. Oh that's great to hear! Vroom vroom
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Yeah, should fit fine, MTB 11 and 10 are the same freehub wise.
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OK here's a question:
If you had a hub (old, bit knackered but worth rebuilding cos it's a 'classic' - BHC Airlite high flange to be exact) that had been laced oddly before, going by the spoke marks, in that the leading spokes are head-out on one side, head-in the other - rebuilding with spokehead washers, would you: relace as before, as is the 'received wisdom', or correct the error and lace correctly? And, someone remind me, should leading or trailing be head-out?
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If you want to build yourself, I like these a lot... they also come in 26 inches... obviously if you use inner tubes they make less sense though...
https://whosatthewheel.com/2016/05/30/mavic-ust-rims-for-road-tyres/
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there is nothing wrong with an asymmetric build as you mention... head in or out leading or trailing makes no difference
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someone remind me, should leading or trailing be head-out?
The only place it can make any difference is on the drive side rear [disc rotor side front], where you should lace the pulling spokes heads out if you also interlace the spokes at the outer crossing. That way, the driving [braking] load tends to pull the crossing away from the dérailleur [brake caliper]
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Hi guys.
I've got a miche primato rear hub that doesn't spin freely. This happens both loaded and unloaded. The wheel is virtually new and has had roughly 50 miles on it.
Is this a loading problem or something I can expect to brake in? -
If you slightly undo the red cap (undo the nut, release 1/8 of a turn anticlockwise and redo allen nut) you unload the bearings slightly. DON'T over-tighten the allen bolt... its a tiny and fragile thing.
It's a good idea not to have too much load on the bearings as they will wear out quicker... sometimes Miche put too much load on them -
Hmm. Not seeing a red cap. It's a single sided track hub, not a road one...
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Ah, OK... then they will probably loosen up over time, maybe a case of tight seals
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Thanks man. I'll keep an eye on them then I guess
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There's a Miche track hub bearing thread , you don't need to replace them but there are handy pics of the guts which will make it clear how you adjust the preload, although it's basically the same process as cup/come bearings.
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Thanks. Looks like it needs setting up again. I've had nothing but issues with these wheels. And from a builder on here that is held in regard. Disappointing really.
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What issues get in contact with the builder and they will no doubt help. If it is me I will help.
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Yeah I'm waiting for a response. Communication with this builder has been curt and inefficient. Should have payed attention to the warning signs but trusted the judgment of the forum instead. @cycleclinic it wasn't you don't worry
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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help
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Flip the front wheel? That means Drive/No drive spokes may be the "wrong" way around, but in reality this makes very,very little difference and you won't spot the spokeheads from closeby.
Or take labels off.