Current Projects chat and miscellany

...it's a 165mm road crankset.. will go for single 1/8" ring yeah.

I agree in principle, but the chainline is hard to get right with a flat chainring. I've modified some Novatec axles to give the required line to go with 5600 cranks. Obviously, I went full tart mode, but the basic hack is to turn the drive side aluminium nut down to about half its original thickness and add a corresponding spacer between the aluminium nut and the bearing on the NDS. If you're using it on the track, you'll probably have to trim the axle a bit as it will poke out of the drive side track nut. The 120mm axle is probably long enough not to cause track nut engagement issues on the NDS with a steel frame, but you can get a 130mm axle if you need to.

Good polishing, you should show @drøn :) I'm about to restock, so if you want a 46×4 left out of the bath let me know, it might be easier than finding a lower stack compression ring.

Sweet stem to #slam :)

Thanks :-), and hopefully I shouldn't need one... I have said compression ring, but it's too low, and the cover bottoms out on HT, so hoping to find some micro shim things locally, or, can grind the fitted one down to suit. Will do for now though.

I agree in principle, but the chainline is hard to get right with a flat chainring. I've modified some Novatec axles to give the required line to go with 5600 cranks. Obviously, I went full tart mode, but the basic hack is to turn the drive side aluminium nut down to about half its original thickness and add a corresponding spacer between the aluminium nut and the bearing on the NDS. If you're using it on the track, you'll probably have to trim the axle a bit as it will poke out of the drive side track nut. The 120mm axle is probably long enough not to cause track nut engagement issues on the NDS with a steel frame, but you can get a 130mm axle if you need to.

Hmm.....maybe i can get away with a 3/32" ring, without hacking the hub.

maybe i can get away with a 3/32" ring, without hacking the hub

It's too far out to be comfortable, outer ring chainline is about 47mm and typical track hubs are 42. If you use the inner position, it's about 39mm which is closer but still further off than you'd want. The Pro option is one of the dished USE rings, but they're £100+

You could go the full Velosolo route and re-space an XT M756 front disc hub to use as a rear, and shim a bolt-on sprocket to suit front chainline. Won't be low flange at the rear, but for the front, could then polish a front XT M753 (non disc, low flange, not bulbous like the M750) hub to match.

EDIT - scrap the M753 idea - has bespoke aluminium axles, so probably difficult to fit your own solid axle. Revert to HB-M750. Probably all-round simpler/less faff to change crank.

Or just get a track chainset

ild say neoretro wouldnt work aesthetically with that kind of old frame.

also, finding a 110bcd track ring could prove a pain.

ild say save the hassle and get a square taper crankset. shaved road could save you some pennies

Is neo retro a thing now? Is it just new groupset on old frame?

That looks 1950s to my untrained eye. Will only look good with period kit. Are you even sure it's 700c?

it is 700c and maybe you guys are right. i should probably get sg75s..... i can't stand classic campy.

also, finding a 110bcd track ring could prove a pain.

it's 130bcd.
the stem will stay though, i have the same for quill standard.

I need some advice about fit and cockpit setup.

This is my cross check in touring mode, It has dawned on me after some extended periods of riding that the fit isn't quite right, I get pressure points on the ball of my thumb and my shoulders ache after a long day.

The only thing I can really change is the bar width, as I don't want to shorten the stem because it will affect the tracking with a load on the front and it's already and inline post.

How much difference will changing the bars by a few cm really make? Should I try out some flat bars? What other options do I have to reduce these symptoms?

Edit: The hoods are pictured tilted up, but I've tried lots of different angles without any real success. If I lift them up, my shoulders feel better but I get more pressure on my hands.

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I am not an expert, but just some random thoughts: bars with shorter reach and other brake levers might be worth a try... if the bike is not too long for you, regular stretching should help you with keeping the weight over the saddle instead over the bars which might help with your shoulders.

The bike looks great by the way, even if it doesn't fit.

I think that means if fits the forum criteria anyway.

can't conect as Gaston
WDF is that ?

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Hhhhhaaaaa cool !

DSC09653 by Gaston Dunoyer, sur Flickr

glad to have you back

Any more problems, post here: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/291903/

I've finally succumbed to the lure of a +ve rise stem and stole Mrs Fredtc's crabonz

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40th birthday is a big milestone

Might be worth trying swept back bars and ergo grips

@spotter and @TM have been giving good reccos for this combo

Also Tim, rad bike is rad.

do love

ok.....just did :D

my Dolan Pre Cursa is on it's last legs, and the alpina headset and the thomson stem are suddenly incredibly tight on the (carbon) steerer. I may be wrong, but I'm concerned it's maybe de-laminating.

considered a new fork, but honestly, the 60cm top tube would be better if it was just a few CM shorter. so looking for a new frameset. Ideally I want something around £300.
any good suggestions for something around that price range?