Any question answered...

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Is there still a coffee shop above Waterstones? That was where my salted caramel brownie addiction started...

I've got a front wheel with axles too big for the dropouts.

File the axle/file the dropouts/buy a new axle/give up?

Which one is more valuable?

Unless it's an amazingly valuable axle, I'd file that, in the assumption it's easier to replace the axle than add material to your dropouts.

Files axles, make sure it's even on both side.

What bike should I get Mrs Hefty for Christmas?

Ideally:

Step through
Flat or back swept bars
Small - she's 5'1"
3-8 speed hub gears
Chain guard
Of little appeal to tea leaves
Front rack / basket [capability]

She does maybe 30 flat miles a week round town.

Suggestions please...

Which one is more valuable?

More to the point, which one is the right size?

Most likely issue is a ⅜" axle being too big for 9mm fork ends, in which case some #judiciousfiling of the threads will make things right, assuming it's a QR axle. Don't do it if you have a ⅜" solid axle with track nuts, cutting that down to 9mm will take too much of the thread off to be safe.

This is a Shimano M10 axle (HB-M495, but the HB-M525 is similar) which is turned down to 9mm to fit fork ends, to give an idea of what you want to end up with.

More to the point, file the axle

ftfy

file the axle

But only where it needs filing :)

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I'm sure tom...m will figure it out.

It is a solid axle, so I assumed 9mm.

But another 9mm axle fit so it isn't the dropouts.

Given what's been said about safety, I'm not sure I necessarily trust myself to file it precisely and safely.

Another question as well (this build is a bit of a nightmare, though this part I was fully aware of):

I have an Omnium chainset with a pedal stuck in the NDS arm.

If I were to get another GXP crank arm of the same length as a replacement, am I likely to notice any difference in Q-factor etc?

I assumed 9mm

There are quite a few ⅜" axles out there, mainly on cheap BSOs made for the American market but they leak into other markets too.

Given what's been said about safety, I'm not sure I necessarily trust myself to file it precisely and safely.

Needn't be perfect, a little bit on both side sufficient.

I have yet to die tho, will keep you informed if I do however.

mainly on cheap BSOs made for the American market but they leak into other markets too.

That they do especially on singlespeed/fixed wheel bicycle, like the Specialized Langster.

If I were to get another GXP crank arm of the same length as a replacement, am I likely to notice any difference in Q-factor etc?

We don't know how sensitive you are. The change in Q factor is significant, but it's of the same order as switching from road to MTB.

I'd be surprised if a pedal was properly stuck in a crank that new unless it was either damaged or had been at the bottom of the ocean for a few months.

The annoying thing is that it is an XT SPD pedal, so there is no part for a pedal spanner, just an 8mm allen key on the inside.

I've tried heating it up, as suggested on Sheldon Brown, but to no avail.

Any suggestions?

Bigger lever.

Orbea Katu

I got my wife one and she loves it. I think they do a hub geared one too.

The trouble is it's hard to get the hex key in that far because there's not a very big area for it to engage so I think with a lever it would just slip out.

This stuff is pretty good, or grab a similar chilly penetrating spray.

Wow that's a big picture.

Bigger lever.

This.

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That's a good shout.

Are they fun?

They look fun.