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  • What would I do with the spare 3 drills then :) I've never counted but I must have 100's of drill bits, annually seem to find a reason to buy another few though.

  • GIRA for designer sockets and switches. Prepare your wallet for the shock first.

    MK for more normal but quality options, Lutron for light switching systems.

  • Ikea under sink gubbins.
    How can i push it back as far as possible so the nice tidy under sink bin units i've bought work and the drawer closes?

    can you replace any bits of it?

  • Buster & Punch was a @Tenderloin recommendation.

    Dat shit ain't cheap.

  • Oh cheers... they might be a goer... not cheap no... but not daft money considering I would only have a one light switch in each room and my flats of small I don't have many rooms... only issue is the depth... think i remember trying to fit a dimmer but it was too deep... I might need 25mm and below.... or I might need less.. totally thinking out loud... you don't get less than 20-25mm ey (@Airhead I expect you ar ea man who knows) so maybe the dimmer I bought was a 45mm one, I tried switching box thing but it's cut into the drywall up wood bits. whatever they are called.

  • Hopefully they are not notched into the studs (wood bits!), it can be difficult to change backboxes but it's usually easier in plasterboard than any other type of wall. There is such a thing as a plasterboard back box which is only supported by the plasterboard so you could move the sockets to the side of stud and fill the old hole with the piece of plasterboard you cut out for the new one (given that the wires are long enough).

  • Oh yeah thats totally what they are - notched in the studs.

    My place was built by great big cowboy tossers.

  • You've reminded me I need to buy some more and get them fitted :'( r.i.p ca$h

  • How can I sort that so I can use my bin tidy.


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  • No.
    Speak very slowly. I'm not a polish builder....

  • Silly_Savage
    Hi for the cost of the uPVC door why do you not just replace the plastic roof multi-sheet units generate a lot less noise.
    uPVC is a pretty crappy material for doors and £350 is very cheap so not likely to last

  • The right angle bit is all fused...and is one piece. No rotational freedom.

  • You mean like 3 ply polycarbonate? That's what I just recently did. It's actually noisier than the corrugated plastic that was on there before (although more secure and warmer which was the main aim.

  • The bit where the flexible pipe, that is a funny angle, might move a bit. I was going to shorten and straighten somewhere.

  • I know everyone loves to have a moan about ikea.

  • Translation: add a right-angle joint to the downstream end of the flexible hose so one end points into the wall and the other points left, parallel to the ground. Twist around the weird funny angled bit (at the upstream end) so it's parallel with the wall. Shorten the hose and re-attach it so it's also parallel to the wall.

  • It needs a diagram. I want to send back a sarcastic jpg but should make that diagram...

  • Just checked, mine are 16mm deep and notched into the damn studs... ffs...

  • Yep that was what I mean though 5 ply might be better, the pitch is pretty low too in that location you at not going to get a lot of driving rain so it will be coming straight down if the roof had a better angle then it would make less noise. Also you could pad out the supports with old inner tube so the polycarbonate does not resonate so much. Lastly check the gutters if they are leaking or over flowing that makes a right noise. As I said uPVC doors are just cheap rubbish plus if you take the existing door out you will have to make good around it

  • The gutter was cleared at the time as it was a big problem before, so it's mostly direct rain making the noise. I only own the ground floor so it's as high as it can go, that would also involve modifying the render and party wall. Good shout on the padding though, I had thought about that, or expanding foam tape, or maybe just adding some additional mass to the plastic at the beams.

    I'll probably replace that door if I get to renovating the bedroom before we move, but it's at the bottom of the list. More earplugs for now.

  • You can get a surround that will give you more space to fit a dimmer but your switches are no longer surface mounted. I've used them a couple of times where functionality is more important than looks.

    On the other hand cutting a new hole in the plasterboard and moving the box next to the joist is not beyond the wit of man.

  • So coming closer to buying a TV for the first time and the small living room means the obvious space for it is on the chimney breast. There are alcoved shelves either side. Plug sockets bottom centre of those alcoves.

    I'd like a wood burner in due time - it's only a small hole so wouldn't be very big - how much of a problem is that for a TV? Internet is giving me mixed opinions unsurprisingly. Like Christina Aguilera my heart is saying let's but my brain is saying woah hold on a second.

    Secondly and far more importantly as I'll almost certainly get one and put it there regardless of the above:

    How do I hide the wires? Chase into the plaster and brick? Why isn't there a completely wireless TV already? Don't say projectors.

  • Why on earth wouldn't you? They're the best thing ever.

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Home DIY

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