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Well_is_it
Some years ago one of the big old mills in japan was suffering and about to close down. Uniqlo came round with some cash and struck a very good deal. The mill got to carry on, but was bound to sell most of their produce to Uniqlo ar ridicilously low prices. That was when you could get decent selvedge cheap at Uniqlo. The mill (I don't remember which) must since have adjustet the material quality and effort they put in the denim to better reflect the price they get.
IIRC...