Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

TRP Hylex should be fine I think. I know for certain you can use Shimano calipers with Hylex levers, so by that logic the hoses and barbs should be the same. Not sure about olives though, but you could probably reuse those?

I've attempted to reuse olives on mtb levers and it's never gone well. Barbs aren't usually a problem. I reckon I've got a few Shimano olives around so I'll give them a go.

I've attempted to reuse olives on mtb levers and it's never gone well

Howcome? I'd have thought barbs would be impossible to remove?

Heat up the hose a bit, cut a slit from the end of the barb down the hose and remove with pliers. Lot of work to save a few pounds, but desperate times call for desperate measures.

That hylex+shimano setup was built with a shimano barb + olive (+ converter) in the caliper end, so is not a good example.

Trp uses a barb like Formula with a little o-ring on the end:

But I think you could get away with using Shimano for everything. Goodridge fittings basically use the same end for every brand:

No, shimano have two different barb sizes.

I'm still to see any evidence theyre not actually interchangeable

I tried to UTFS but haven't found anything conclusive, so here goes:

I know hydraulics are much more effective, but I'm not keen on a system that I can't fix if I'm in the middle of nowhere touring or on an audax. So I'm considering asking a bike manufacturer to swap out their standard Shimano hydraulics for Spyres (which they're happy to do). I'm not barking, am I?

The kind of crash which will damage hoses will generally make you not want to ride anyway.

They can get pulled out, though, can't they? Not easily, admittedly.

Not really... you'd have to be very unlucky.

Your biggest worry is some kind of manufacturing fault or dirt / heat induced failure that results in a damaged seal that only shows up 200 miles in to a cross continent epic.

That said the cable stuff is generally road side fixable - can replace cables, no seals to break etc. It can also tolerate a slap dash maintenance routine somewhat better - in my experience. Immune from cack-handed mechanics.

You could probably sell hydro shifters+brakes for more than you would pay for OEM shifters + Spyres. Not sure the difference would be worth the effort made

They'd said they would cut the price accordingly, so that's not really an issue

How about air travel? Any pitfalls taking hydros on a plane? Bike would be in a box of course.

Nope took mine to Sweden this summer no issues

Fine - as long as the bike builder has left a bit of slack in the hoses so you can discombobulate the bars from the stem or steerer if you need to. Holds are pressurised these days, just a bit cold IIRC.

If they have been poorly bled, and there is air in the system then they can feel a bit spongy after air travel. (My experience with MTB levers). But they'll be fine by the time the bike is reassembled and the levers pulled a couple of times. Just make sure you put pad spacers in when you take the wheels out! I'd feel pretty confident in hydros for touring, especially a nice new set.

Holds are pressurised these days, just a bit cold IIRC.

Your being there helps pay for Doctor Cake's 1st class ticket then.

If they have been poorly bled, and there is air in the system then they can feel a bit spongy after air travel. (My experience with MTB levers).

You can isolate the reservoir - where the air is - from the caliper and hoses by elastic banding the leavers closed with some pad spacers in the calipers.

Hmmm.... This is all beginning to win over my fear of things I don't know how to fix. I guess my worst case scenario is having a mechanical while cycling across Patagonia, which is something I was hoping to do on the new bike... But most of the time I'll be riding in Europe and within reach of civilisation if something does go wrong. Hmmmm....

Have a read around, one barb size has a smaller diameter. Use the wrong one and the brakes will barely work. One sort is silver coloured, the other brass coloured.

You're kinda barking, I have seen numerous audaxers with hydraulics, even tubular 23mm tyres.

It's almost rare to have a crash or system failure to leave you stranded, my touring bike have full hydraulic and still find them more reliable than cable pull because of the lack of adjusting needed.

Like Howard said, you have to be really unlucky for that to happen, I can comfortably says that other part on your bike is more likely to leave you stranded than hydraulic, says a cracked tube (didn't stop someone doing the Bryan Chapman Memorial).

You says it, Europe, fine, Patagonia, BB7s.

Best compromise is the HY/RD that is quite easy to fix.

Fixed brklss ftw.

Good shout, hadn't thought of isolating them like that.