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• #453
Secula work very well on mudguards if you're without a rack.
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• #454
Lights for a bottle dynamo are different to those for a hub dynamo yeah?
Not really - they both want 6V, so the only real difference is that you switch off a bottle dynamo by moving it away from the tyre, while with a hub dynamo you either need a switch on the light, or to leave it on all the time.
Yes, I do believe 6V for that hub. The 3v ones are a funny shape and generally black, and have MTB branding like 'LX' and such like.
There aren't any 3V hub dynamos AFAIK - they're all 6V, whether they're LX, XT, Alfine or go under model numbers like 3N80 (Shimano, obviously, but the same applies to SP and SON models).
Most of them will output 3W (still 6V), but some are designed to put out less power (there's a range that only output 1.5W, while some of the hubs like the SP SV-9 or SON Delux can't be sold as 6V3W for 700c wheels, as they only reach that output above the threshold speed set by the German standards (they're designed to hit the output under the threshold when built into small wheels, which rotate faster for a given road speed)).
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• #455
oops
yes I meant 3W (or 1.5W)...
Back to dynamo school
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• #456
Secula work very well on mudguards if you're without a rack.
I've been having trouble with mine, they're so fragile the cover keeps getting popped off from knocks and scrapes.
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• #457
Fair enough. I've got two on bikes but haven't had issues (yet). Will report back!
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• #458
I am clumsy ...
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• #460
Great! Ta.
Any excuse to shave a few more grammes onto my tourer.
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• #461
Make sure you don't forget to pack this into your pannier too!
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• #462
Has anyone built their own SP wheel? Are their listed h u b dimensions good?
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• #463
Yes they are, the ones on the "Specification drawing".
Haven't measured myself but got the right length spokes with those. -
• #464
.
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• #465
I'm a complete novice with Dynamos and their associated kit but I just got myself a SP PD-8 dynamo wheel and want to kit out my commuter bike with a decent front light, back light with potential to use USB power from the front light.
I think I read you can't have the lights and charge from the USB output??
99% of my use will be on lit roads in and out of central london but I'm planning on doing some late evening jaunts for training in the winter.
Q's are:
- What's a reasonably priced, reliable, front light that I can charge Apple/Samsung phone from.
- Decent back light
thanks
- What's a reasonably priced, reliable, front light that I can charge Apple/Samsung phone from.
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• #467
@TheShipwright - you can charge and have light. The only light I am aware of that's worth bothering with is the B+ M Luxos U. I've got one - it hasn't missed a beat in over a year. When charging and lighting the road ahead of you, the light will be noticeably less bright. Also, if you're doing a lot of stopping and starting, the device may not charge as well - it will stop charging and start charging again if you're stopping frequently. Probably not very good for your devices battery life. It's more likely to charge 'properly' if you're on a 'proper' ride where there aren't traffic lights. I'd advise mounting it above a mudguard if possible. Water has been known to break some models - though mine's never had any issues with water. One thing I will say about USB charging is that, I've found myself using an Anker charger from Amazon for charging my phone on the move - I think the consistent power, as well as the fact that it doesn't dim my light, makes it more worthwhile than having a USB charger on my dynamo. Though with that said, it is nice to have the backup option of the dynamo.
A rear B+ M will work nicely. The one I've linked below gets brighter when you slow down, like a brake light. There is a non-usb option of the Luxos below that costs almost £40 less. Great light though - has great side visibility, which a Supernova/Schmidt don't have.
https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b--m-toplight-line-brake-plus-rear-brake-light/aid:553806
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• #468
I have an SP dyno and a Supernova front/rear light combo, plus a D1 Igaro USB charger.
You can run the lights and charge at the same time but you do lose light power. So, my preferred method is to charge a cache battery (any Anker, etc will do) during the day and then use that for gadgets during the night.
It's fine if you just need a 'be seen' light but I like full power when riding lanes/unknown roads in pitch black.
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• #469
@russmeyer, @JB, @hippy Ta very much for the info.
Clears things up quite a bit re charging whilst using the light(s) and ta for reccomendations.
I like the idea of rear getting brighter when you slow down.
Cheers -
• #470
^The topline brake plus is the daddy of dynamo rear lights. I love mine. On a dark ThNRC recently a rider behind me mentioned that it had some effect on them when I slowed, which is great. I guess we're used to motors having brake lights so it's a pretty instinctual reaction for most of us.
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• #471
Rode behind my GF's and was waiting for it to light up as she coasted into the lights, and then it DID and it was really fucking bright. Glad I brought it for her now..
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• #473
You can normally do this with a bracket meant for saddle rails. I ended up making a custom one for mine though as my rails were too close together.
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• #475
Anyone else get a slight audible buzzing from their Luxos casing?
Yes, I do believe 6V for that hub. The 3v ones are a funny shape and generally black, and have MTB branding like 'LX' and such like.
+1 for the B&M mid-range front lights. Excellent stuff for the money. And if you're running a rack, the rear 'Toplight' range are just excellent.