Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

So far so good on my Archetypes (ACI alpina aero spokes, 28H, track hubs) should I check the nipples on a regular basis or should it be fine?

Cycled a few hundred miles so far.

Do you mean breaking spokes?
It has not much to do with the rim itself, rather with correct spoke lenght and how good is the builder.

I think jwest is referring to your comment about the rim chewing up tha nipples?

Ah yes. Sorry.
It does sometimes, but mainly alloy nipples.you can somewhat limit that by deburring the spoke holes.

What's the best technique for deburring the spoke holes without removing too much material?

Tx. So far no problems.

The rims I got looked very smooth it's the older model, no edges or seams that stick out. Spoke holes looked ok too.

Built them myself so if I die in a fiery inferno it was my fault :P

Countersink drill bit and avoiding any hamfisted moves

I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Also you can't tell by just looking at a new rim, you will feel it as you are building, that your nipples bind for no reason.
From the ones I've seen, Archetype does it, Velocity rims are terribly finished too.
Pacentis are always well finished.
I generally chamfer all non eyeleted rims as a part of the wheelbuild.

I didn't have many problems, there were just a few I had to overtighten and back off as they were winding up.

Gently gently does it...

The mavic hate is strong lately but I built with opensport, the finish is so-so but I never had problems with them. The Archetypes finish is definitely better though no annoying seam that sticks out when truing.

Most of the rims on the market are ok depending on intended use and what your standards are.
Open pro is cashing in on the fact that it used to be good.
It's 2016, the rim is very narrow, not very stiff and takes only 100kgf on the drive side which is fuck all and it's pricey for what it is. Saying all that, It's very round and sidewalls are very well machined unlike some other rims.
Still, better options out there.

3rd place I've posted this on here, sorry for spamming it about, but hopefully someone can help!

My DT Swiss R24 spline disc wheel popped a NDS rear spoke on the way into work today. Any idea where I can get hold of a replacement aero straight pull spoke somewhere in London (ideally near Victoria) today?

.

not near victoria but condor tend to have a lot of spares - try calling them on 020 7269 6820

Any reason why I can't pair Sapim's Polyax (conical nipple) washers with DT Swiss nipples? I imagine both nipple varieties have a similar conical face.

hi folks. looks like i got bigger problems(reference post 4862). replaced the broken spoke and trued the wheel up but today at 60 miles another spoke pinged. same side, 2 spokes up from the first breakage at the nipple end again. do you think its time for a rebuild with new spokes? may go radial?

How well do the spokes line up with the nipples? Did you stress relieve properly?

And is the spoke tension in order?

If you're not sure, use a low spoke count or are riding your wheels hard, a tensionometer may be in order. Or perhaps there's something not right in the areas of the rim...a burr maybe?

thanks for the responses. did stress the spokes in pairs and by pressing down on the rim with the hub on a block of wood, its true that the spokes look unnaturally bent at the point of entering the nipples than any other wheels ive owned. This is way i suggested radial lacing has i though this may help alining the spokes with the nipples.
bought a tension meter which was ok but not perfect

its true that the spokes look unnaturally bent at the point of entering the nipples

That was what I suspected. The thick rim bed of the Archetype will tend to hold the nipples in the radial alignment of the drilling. Having a bend where the spoke enters the nipple isn't a problem per se, but it will lead to rapid fatigue failures at that point if the stress relief isn't up to scratch.

I prefer the Jobst method of stress relief, gripping opposing pairs of spokes and gripping by hand, rather than just trying to axially displace the hub relative to the rim. The mechanics of the gripping method make it easier to apply a higher and more uniform (if you have a good feel for it) overload to all the spokes.

Help

Help yourself. Front or rear? Road or track? Large or small flange? How many crossings? Once you've decided on those, plug your numbers into one of the several recommended spoke calculators.

leonard.io/edd/

By former forumenger @ehren_fried_chicken. Not seen on here much since he moved to Berlin. :(

thanks mdcc_tester

can the wheel be rescued by stressing the spokes with the jobst method or would you suggest starting again with new spokes?

can the wheel be rescued by stressing the spokes with the jobst method

If some of the spokes have already gone ping, the others are likely to be well on their way to to doing the same, i.e. a large part of their fatigue life has already passed. I'd start afresh.

Used it for my wheels, spot on.

It's "toll" or even "geil" ;)

Vision metron hubs
Are they just novatec hubs?