Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

I ride 24 spoke rear wheels woth cx ray some carbon some alloy. I weight a quote a bit more and the rims do not move between the brakes by anything noticable.
What the prevous poster plans should be fine.

I agree with you mate. I never meant to sound like your wheel is gonna rock between your brake pads like crazy.
However using stiffer spokes will decrease that tendency

About to purchase some Mack 20/24 road hubs, can I have some suggestions for a light shallow rim? Carbon or otherwise? Was looking at the HED Belgium Black series but they still seem hard to get in Aus.

Kinlin xr22t - light, wide, shallow, tubeless ready, offset rear option -440g
Pacenti sl23 - flavour of the year, quite pricey - 430g
Ryde pulse sprint - shallow, wide, tubeless -410g, similar price to pacenti
Any far eastern carbon shallow rim like say Farsports - similar cost to pacenti, 25mm profile at about 380g, 18mm internal

Ryde pulse sprint

Any experience with the CSS coating ie how much longer do the rims last riding in all weather; how do they break?

Just wanted to say thanks very much to broken_777 for being so helpful with my rear wheel issues over the weekend!

want something wide and not too spendy to lace to novatecs for all purpose riding.

http://thecycleclinic.co.uk/products/kinlin-xr22t-rim

this is the one right?

lasers or race? will lasers be okay on DS with 32 spokes?

That campagnolo lamda strade wheel I'm doing up for a mate...I'm beginning to wonder now if the rim isn't bent like a Pringle.

14 fecked nipples (fnar) and it looks like a Pringle still after 20 rounds of spoke fiddling

Maybe I should take everything out, flatten rim (it's steel) and go again.

Do Not Ever Offer to true old job lot wheels. Free pro tip ^_^

First wheel build. I used the online calculator and ordered spokes accordingly.

The photo below is of my radially laced non-drive side. Somehow the spokes ended up pointing out from the hub in a sort of sideways/spiralling fashion, rather than at a straight angle.
No idea how it ended up that way. Will I crash in a ball of flames?

Other than that the wheel is nice and true and built to match the symmetry of my current rear wheel.

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Picture of the whole wheel?

Here, not sure how well it shows.

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Move (non-)radial spokes one hole over? (in clockwise direction) ..well actually 2 holes over...

Spokes on wheel I'm trying to fix for a mate are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long. Running out of thread...

Whomever built it originally made a frigging hash of it! No wonder if went into a pringle.

[it's not worth it financially but I promised I'd do what I can...aci spokes are cheap if I can't source anything used]

Does anyone know if the measurements for CXP Pros differ in anyway from the measurements for CXP33s? Mavic's website is horribly unhelpful.

Lol still struggling with that haha what a mish!

Think of all the experience you've gained though I'm sure you'll be a master by the end of of it ;)

Too long enough to add a cross?

That's what I ended up doing on a friend's wheel, worked out nicely with a 3x when initially built 2x.

That may work...it's 2 cross laced so I can give that a go, tx!

This is why some people refuse to build / true wheels I think :):)

https://leonard.io/edd/ works for me so far give it a rattle with both rims :)

Or look up the ERD and calculate, but the above is maybe easier... ;)

Which novatec disc hubs do I want for 10/11 speed SRAM road cassette and disc brakes with quick release? What's the difference between d711sb/d712sb and d771sb/d772sb, is one 10 speed and the other 11?

What rims should I be looking at for road tubeless, rim brakes and 36 spokes? Reasonable price and good availability preferred ... and under 500g a bonus.

At that weight, 36h drilling seems to limit it to Archetypes, TB14s or A23s - I'm currently minded to go for A23s on the grounds that I'm replacing an Open Pro, and the published ERD is similar enough that I might get away without replacing the spokes, maybe using washers.

I'd definitely prefer something cheaper though - don't really like spending £50-odd on a consumable.

Get new spokes regardless.

Get new spokes regardless.

I will if I need to. I haven't needed to the last couple of times I've re-rimmed that wheel.

I just bought some Mavic Open Pro tubular, which were listed as 360g, but they're 400g, which seems like quite a big discrepancy. Are there any other sub 400g tubs that would be suitable for cross, or should I just stick to these?