Any question answered...

if its of any use, enigma have just repaired a similar crack for me, but on the bottom of the seat tube. It was £100 inc return postage

Anyone elever had any dealings with an Altura Thun crankset. Normal puller is too big, bb is wobbly as all hell.

Oh we can find it. It's tasty, tasty stuff.

Ta, will do.

http://www.bistrolabarrique.co.uk/barrique_bath.htm was amazing

looking to get a new garage door.......14' wide sectional (as opposed to up-and-over)......anyone have any experience of a door like this without electric motor? Salesman said that a door this wide would be very difficult to open/close manually?

You bet it would; unbuckling your seatbelt, dealing with weather - the list of downsides is endless.

Does anyone have a recommendation for good, free VPN services? I want to watch UK (ITV4) coverage of the TDF from Sweden.

Try the encryption thread

I asked in here a while back about a reasonable price for getting a square taper BB removed. I took the offending frame to my lbs, expecting a long wait and a steep price tag for getting the fully seized unit out. They've failed completely. Apparently the paint is gone around the BB area (I consented to this) from the heat applied.

My question is: what do I do now? Take it to a frame builder? I really want to keep the frame in a usable state. I don't know who built it but I know its light and has ovalised tubing so is of at least reasonable quality.

heat? shouldn;'t need any heat if they have the correct tools.

Take it to a different shop, you shouldn't get charged if they couldn't do it, or even charged more just case it take longer than usual.

My question is: what do I do now?

My question is: what kind of BB, and how much of it is still in the shell?

you shouldn't get charged if they couldn't do it, or even charged more just case it take longer than usual

That's a matter for the contractual arrangement he made with the original shop, not sweeping generalisations. There are several reasonable ways to price a job like that, including being paid to try but fail.

I've already spoken to the fella about, he's said there'll be no charge so I'm going to take them some beers for the effort. I haven't seen the frame yet to see how much is left of it @mdcc_tester but I took some photos before I dropped it off. The only markings I could see on it said 'nadax' (near the spindle) and 'nmu' (on the notched part used to unscrew it).
The other option the shop have given me is to send it off to a framebuilder who'll sort it.

Hi, lads.. newb here. Just wanted to ask, does anyone here ships stuff to Europe? I mean I am in Latvia and would pay top dollar for the stuff they post here, because track/fixed culture in Baltics is pretty weak.

Most likely a Nadax Favorit.

It's a cartridge BB (FAG bearings) with an aluminium shell. If you can get the small bearing retainer (the bit with 4 pin holes) out of the NDS cup, you can drift out the axle and bearings and then you're left with a pretty soft aluminium shell to ream out to the minor diameter of the shell threads. Once you get that far, if you're lucky, the remaining aluminium spiral can be picked out and the threads chased for a final clean up.

As it's aluminium cartridge threads in presumably a steel shell, you might still find that the amount of corrosion has made the shell thread unusable, in which case you'd have to ream them out and cut chamfers on the shell ends to use a threadless BB.

1 Attachment

Best value @mdcc_tester approved cable and wire cutter? 20 squids for the park tools one seems maybe a bit steep?

It's not. Compare the cost of the cutters with the hassle of replacing the wrecked ends of cable housing, the annoyance of badly cut cables catching and stripping and all the other ballaches that happen when the cable and housing are not cut cleanly. Mine paid for itself the first time I used it.

^This. All day long.

Park Tools are the budget option, I believe using a Dremel is approved.

Thanks very much for the comprehensive reply! I at least know what the action plan is to get the bike on the road again. Need to make some friends in the university workshop maybe.

ok cool - it probs is worth it, just feeling tight is all

I believe using a Dremel is approved

The Dremel is used for clean up after using the Park cutter.

I've only ever got nice, straight cuts with these Draper ones.

heat applied.

I've heard of that being done for seatposts but not BBs. As Tester says, the right tool for this is a lathe, so eventually a framebuilder is your most likely saviour.