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• #277
I'm 5'10 and figured a M would do. I guess either would work. Cheers.
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• #278
Have you or your mates used them before?
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• #279
M would do, though they have changed their sizing again (I think I'm an XS with their new sizing guides, this is based on their TT length)
Also I ride a S atm, but with a 120mm stem.
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• #280
No, not really. But I think they'd be my choice for an all round aero wheelset.
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• #282
Definitely, I keep forgetting these actually have aluminium breaking surface....
If the xmas bouns is generous then these wheelset will be right in the basket, I think what kept me getting these (which I should in hindsight) is that I loved the chris king hubs, and wanted them and thinking I would eventually laced them to some enve.
But I think you definitely helped made up my mind I terms of the wheelset I will get though! Cheers! =)
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• #283
So almost a year since I had this bike rebuilt I thought I will give a little update, unfortunately or fortunately I have decided to get a bike fit and this is the long write up report I did for the bike-fit thread:
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• #284
I've never had a bike fit before, so this is my personal experience/report on my bike fit with CycleFit.
I decided to invest in a bike fit after I found that my knee and arc was starting to hurt after 5-6 hours in the saddle, I've been looking around several different shops around London (because I'm lazy) for a decent bike fit shop and I got recommended by a mate of mine for cyclefit, plus they do the pros for Trek and Matrix cycling team, I thought that was a good enough reference for me to use them.
As my appointment was on a Saturday there was only two people working there, however, the service and professionalism was amazing and I felt I was treated like royalty in the shop. There bike fit service I went for is the pro version (£395) which included the realignment of my shoes and I didn't know but also the custom made insole which help to support my arc and riding position.
After the paperwork about my riding history and personal data/measurements, Jim (one of the guys who works there) told me to get onto my bike (whilst it was on a turbo trainer) and we can analyse where source of my problem is coming from. We did this by filming me side, front and rear on, but also they installed a pressure cover sensor on saddle to see where I was riding on my saddle.
We quickly established the source of the problem which was where my bum (or lack of) was contacting the saddle and the height of my saddle. Front the pressure sensor we came to the conclusion that I was riding on the nose of the saddle that the actual seat of saddle which means than instead of 6 point contact, I was only have 5 and not really helping the balance and support of me or the bike to a degree. But apparently this was quite common, especially we get so comfortable with the padding in our shorts than that some riders rides this incorrect position with realising it.
For the seatpost apparently the golden rule of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle is: inseam on your leg minus 10. So with my inseam being roughly 79.5cm, my bb to saddle should have been 70cm, not 72.9cm which is what I was riding.
However, on the plus side, the riding position on my top half was in his mind was perfect which is nice to hear. Afterwards we did several different tests to check out my flexibility to make sure that if we adjusted the bike I could still riding that or more extreme position. The conclusion was that I was very flexible and have great hips for a cyclist.
After explaining what the benefit the custom made insoles, we analyse serval positions on the jig bike, which was quite fun because apparently the pressure sensor map wasn't picking me up as usually it works for guys who weight 80 or 90kg and my 71kg was a little light for its liking.
However, but the end of the day we did reach a conclusion about the correct riding position. Which in the long term it will be beneficial to the longevity for my cycling. However, because we have lowered the saddle, this also meant I had to change the front cockpit of my bike, which on a canyon with a 1 1/4 steerer is a pain in the ass! I have been asked to slam the stem to the TT and it possible find a -17 130mm stem. Apparently this will look pro, but as I'm an architect I find it really had to see anything beautiful in that...
Long story short, I wish I had longer legs!
Anyways hope you enjoy this read and if anyone needs any more information regarding cyclefit I would gladly provide you with what I know.
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• #285
Long story short, I'll be slamming my stem completely and replacing my stem with a my current stem with a -17 130mm stem...
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• #286
For the seatpost apparently the golden rule of the bottom bracket to the top of the saddle
Thats centre of BB to top of saddle?
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• #287
Apparently
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• #288
Yep. Nice write up btw
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• #289
Tl;dr
Get a medium canyon (at 5'9" you shouldn't be riding small anyway), 1 1/4 compression bung and tester/bearing cap from canyon and -17° ritchey stem ;)
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• #290
Great write-up, thanks!
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• #291
Looking at all the data and stocks, I'm actually thing to get ride of this frameset and get a aeroad in an xs, the stack seems more reasonable for my flexibility and more importantly it will look better than my current setup with a stupid -17 stem!
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• #292
Aeroad make the most sense, or go for the European bike with tiny stack and massive reach.
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• #293
(at 5'9" you shouldn't be riding small anyway)
Nonsense
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• #294
-17 130mm stem will look epic, super pro, much slam etc.
Or you can just buy a whole new bike instead... whatever works :)
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• #295
Dibs
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• #297
Out of interest what was the reason given for a lower saddle?
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• #298
Because I was riding incorrectly on my bike and therefore lowering the saddle by 2cm fucked up the rest of the position on my bike. :(
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• #299
I mean, what is dropping the saddle by 2cm meant to be better for? Just comfort?
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• #300
So your legs isn't as stretched out, easier to put down the power, spin etc.
Too high can cause many thing, discomfort on saddle, hip rocking, even bouncing on a fixed wheeler
Hed Jet Black