Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

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  • We found the requirement of a garage was a good way of narrowing down the many places we could have looked into.

  • seems like bike not garaged and (spent) TT99 6 month ban going against me

    Swinton quoted 4K new policy OR 2K with transferring my NCB from Lambretta - which works out at something like £240 a month!

    If it was garaged - £789 the year

  • I know they are easy to get round. It's just an extra noisy thing to maybe attract your attention before the bike walks away, and will put off the casual little scrotes rather than the serious bike thieves.

    Similarly, parking in plain sight rather than in a dark corner won't deter a professional bike thief, but I've had three bikes suffer minor vandalism which might have been prevented if they weren't slightly out of public gaze.

  • If it's spent why are you declaring it?

    AFAIA you are not legally obliged to disclose spent convictions. The insurance companies just try their luck.

  • Evidence it has been really lent over or maybe something else so check thepeg to see if bent.

  • If it's spent why are you declaring it?

    AFAIA you are not legally obliged to disclose spent convictions. The insurance companies just try their luck.>

    Think the question is any convictions within past five years?

  • Yeah, pretty sure you don't have to answer it.

    I researched this as I had some points that were spent, you should look into it. I'm 99% certain you don't have to provide the information, it's just thr insurer being cheeky.

  • The issue will be if you try to make a claim, and they find out you didn't answer a specific question they asked and you gave an untrue answer.
    Whether or not you legally need to declare it, if they ask, you don't answer, then tick the 'all my answers are accurate' box, then they find out it's bye bye policy.

    Insurance companies are professional cunts.

    (all opinion, very little fact)

  • Yes but as you are not legally obliged to provide the information, they have no right to ask.

    Some insurers ask "have you ever been convicted/had points" completely in breach of your rights.

  • Start here and Google further if you need to

    http://hub.unlock.org.uk/knowledgebase/insurance-convictions-simple-guide/


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  • wow - game changer - thanks!

  • not declaring TT99 and garaged brings it down to £265!

  • For the year?

    I'll take 5% of the saving ;)

  • for the year! owe you a beer at least!

  • Anyone good with charging systems?

    Picked up a 2007 yamaha ybr 125 injection in lieu of some money owed, but was one hell of a state. Easy the worst bike I've ever seen that's in one piece. So much corrosion!

    Symptoms... Was not charging due to main earth strap not connected to anything, and positive lead coming from regular broken inside the connector. Fixed up both those, replaced battery with a yuasa if the right type as old one was struggling to take a charge even from a decent smart charger.
    Then it was charging but very weakly, at idle almost nothing. Above 4000rpm it was making just 13v, and 14.2 at Red line,until today when it's making nothing.

    Regulator checks out with a multi meter, all that resistance and continuity feels right. But the output is just low.

    Stator coils I'm not sure how to check properly. Each of them has a similar resistance to each other and are within the range given by a Haynes, none have continuity with earth, so that's good?

    But when running I am not getting any voltage between the stator wires (3), it should be as much as 70vac from each according to manual.

    Did a few other tests, no shorts, no bad main cables, all nice regular low resistances, no parasitic draw (at all, when off, everything is off!).

    So from my limited knowledge I'm thinking it's either a duff stator in some way, the coils are breaking down? Or the ignition switch is in some way duff, not sure if this bike has a passive stator or needs a current present to excite it?

    Ignition switch itself is rough, bike came with a new one but appears to be the wrong type, or my existing ignition is buy and the new one is just showing a difference because that's how it's meant to be.

    About tui give up and dump it on a bike mechanic, but seriously doubt there are any good ones in Glasgow

    enter code here
    
  • About tui give up and dump it on a bike mechanic, but seriously doubt there are any good ones in Glasgow

    I can't really help but if you go this route, try Stevie Brierton in the inductrial estate over the road from the velodrome. He's been looking after the dernies and anytime I'm over there he seems to have piles of scooters and wee bikes kicking about so presume he's a bit of an authority on them. He's done a good job on the dernies, I haven't had him do much more than a tyre change on my bike but he worked on my old mans beemer and charged him pennies.

  • Cheers man, sounds about right sort of guy. Missed him today, or will have by the time I get from West to East. Rang up that one in Hillington as shop is alright, hourly rate is £70 odd per hour, wtf! Charge a min of one hour for investigations, at that rate I would be better off just buying a new stator and regulator (50+25) and wing it lol.

  • Hello sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs but have you tried here:

    http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

  • Double fatty chains, Disc lock, immobilizer and full cover now stocked. Insurance seem to like this.

  • That's Ace! Mechanical stuff I understand and usually have a good approach to fault finding, electrical stuff I know start it all does but when it stops doing what it's meant to I'm stumped.
    Handy to have a methodical process to work through.
    From what I've already done Im fairly sure it's the stator. It might have been working barely until I reconnected the regulator then it went into full failure
    Went to a motorbike garage just after work, round the back of a railway type place and they were very quickly stumped, suggested for the cost of small cheap bike parts just replace them, probably only worth getting proper mechanic to look at it if parts are in the hundreds, makes sense.

  • That diagram has helped me diagnose lots of problem bikes.

  • Stator.

    Finally found the issue. Took stator off (easy, compared to the oil filter gauze, which is a total nightmare of a job) looked fine, no really bad spots but a few obviously 'lightly toasted' pieces of insulation on the coils. Put back on and then took a Vac reading between them with motor running. At idle got 7v/15v/15v, and through the rev range the same, the two healthy phases returning upto 70Vac, the duff one never getting above 15Vac. So thats whats causing it! Although all three phases return very similar resistances, 2.6ohm each, thats over the max they are meant to be regardless. So through both measurements, the stator is toast.
    Thankfully didn't end up spending mechanic time getting it found and learnt a thing about charging systems, so all good really, apart from bank balance, fecking £50 for a china part, £150-170 for a yamaha, but made in china in the same factory part. Gonna chance the china part

  • Turns out the china part is in china, 3-4 weeks delivery. Rang a Yamaha dealer who said he'd never been asked for one so has gone off to find a part number, not rang back yet so yeah, great!

    Might look if there is someone local who can rewind it instead, might be a more £££/ safe option

  • http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/ but be wary seems to be poor customer service if anything goes wrong.

    Try and find a motor windings type place and see if they will be interested in doing it.

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Motorcycle and Scooter appreciation

Posted by Avatar for coppiThat @coppiThat

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