Dynamo Lights

The RPM/output is the same as the newer Shimano hubs 72/80 but the drag is significantly more and it's not as well sealed. Fine for commuting but you won't want to compete or long tour with it. Can't advise on the USB (that wouldn't be right).

Anyone got spare SP dynamo connectors?

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/sp-dynamo-hub-connector-kit/

Someone told me the shimano ones will fit sp hubs as well. If that's helpful.

Doubtful ! Mine isnt the same shape at all

Yes but would have to post...

Nifty fork from a local builder

No bother, I've ordered some from SJS. I'm not touching this cursed pile of shit bike now anyway so there's no longer any kind of rush.

Has anyone got any decent pictures showing how I might neatly secure the light cables to the frame? I'm wary of cutting the wire down just yet so I have quite an excess amount that'll have to be taped to the fork.

The rear might go through the frame but I'm yet to try that.

How much slack do you leave at the hub? I'm guessing not much otherwise it'll end up in the spokes - guess I'll have to remember to take the connector off instead of my usual Hulk Smash hitting the front wheel out when I flat. Fuck, this dyno setup won't even last a single ride will it?

Enough for you to be able to fiddle the connector into place. There's no need for masses of slack. A cable tie can be useful to hold it in place if needed. I normally wrap the cables around the tubing with a cable tie either side of where it jumps the headset (to make sure it doesn't pull too tight).

3 cable ties on the fork. One over the dropout, one in the middle, one at the top.

Drill it?

Mine's currently covered in electrical tape. Need to get proper wire strippers I think and do a better job of the connector.

Carbon fork. Nuff trublz. No thanks.
It's the stripped wire into little plastic connector that's the weakest link.
That and forgetting about the wires when I have a flat front tyre. eek!

Surely I don't need ... really ... do I @hippy? Oh well.

/Insert Obligatory Sugru Comment Here

I forgot I'd bought some Sugru. Someone else mentioned it too so seems like a good idea. Thanks.

I think I'll restrip the wires to get more bare wire and get a better connection before I sugru it together.

Sigh. Is it possible to replace the bearings in an Shutter Precision SP-8 without sending it back for warranty replacement?

It's been in my LBS for 4 months (yep) since I crashed, having the front wheel rebuilt on to the existing hub. The hub was quiet when the bike went in to the workshop, and is now loud enough that the bearings sound totally dry and can be heard from a couple of metres away.

Pretty sure I read they're not user-serviceable.

I used the stick on Di2 cable guides up the inside for my fork:

Left some extra cable wrapped round incase I did something stupid like taking the wheel out and not remembering to unlpug the light.

You're right :(

Luckily, the angry noise was caused by the plastic end cap(s) rubbing against the metal underneath. A tiny bit of oil and the hub is now silent. Phew!

Cheap handlebar cotton tape and zip ties (to avoid paint damage and slipping). Add half a turn of tape on the fork, then tension the cable and put some tape over it (two turns maybe?) then goes the zip tie, just enough tension to avoid the tape getting loose...

Go up the right fork leg, as near to the fork crown as you can get, with 28mm GP 4000SII tires there is more than enough clearance there to get the tape and zip tie without problems. Then cross to the left side of the fork, behind it, and secure the cables to the front brake cable housing, and up to the light and usb converter. The dinamo hub must be installed with the connector facing up so you can connect the cables, I just use it in an angle so I can still add some tension to the cable and avoid cable slack.. but the zip tie.

Since the front brake cable housing moves around with the fork, you have no problem running the dynamo cables along it, it won't need any cable slack. If you are going to put the front light in the fork crown you are then set, only problem to deal with its the rear light cable. I would go as I do, up to the handlebars, then a little cable slack to get the cable running along the top tube with the framebag straps (you can use again tape+zip ties if you are not using framebag)

Attaching the D1 somewhere will be last challenge, I just place it inside the framebag.

Have done the 400, 600 and 1000km Brevets with this setup, no problem with frame rubbing or anything else.

EDIT: Sorry I'm still catching up with the forum after the 1000km brevet, just saw you got it all taped here https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13091875/ Anyway I would prefer to get those cables up along the front brake cable housing to avoid hooking them with something when leaning the bike against a fence/door/etc...

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I'm now recommending fast roadies or competition racers place the D1 outside unless they have a device plugged in. Originally the D1 was designed for maximum efficiency at lower speeds, which is retained at higher speeds if a device is plugged in.

Touring cyclists rarely go above the speed at which the protection circuit kicks in (which is what generates the heat). Although the D1 can take the heat, it would be best to charge devices directly and to drop the cache battery (you'll also save some weight).

Cache battery is needed to avoid the interruption of charge when speed varies too much, with a battery pack with pass-through I can charge any device, even when not moving, and recharge at the same time the battery pack when speed is enough to generate power.

Will the new titanium model have the same purpose for slow and medium speeds? I just did the 1000km brevet, and got again super-hot even with the battery-pack connected, maybe because what you said that there is a speed at which it just starts dissipating heat with or without something connected to the usb ports. But it still worked great and charged without problems.

Is there any way for the D1 to use a sizable chunk of metal like an alloy or steel steerer as a heatsink, or is that asking for trouble given the limited airflow?

It's already a heatsink (the case is alloy and the innards use heat paste and heat conductive epoxy). So far it's held up to all heat levels although it's not ideal that the protection circuit is kicking in, and I'm worried by long term reliability in this edge case. The majority of riders buying them are tourers that will only rarely hit the protection circuit (sharp decents).

@Emyr, bertocq has his in a bag which is how the heat builds up. I'm strongly recommending now the D1 is mounted in air-flow for road users.

It's impossible to increase the voltage without reducing efficiency at low/medium speed. It may however be that efficiency has to drop for fast road users by way of two models. They're going fast enough for it not to be a problem anyhow.

The SHIMANO SM-DH10 does the same thing but kicks in early at 6.7v whereas the D1 protection is around 21v. This makes it less efficient (greater drag) at lower speed. https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-sm-dh10-overvoltage-protection/aid:196629

The new titanium model uses the same system, same protection point, but comes with brackets for mounting on the head tube. The titanium is less effective as a heatsink but at least it'll be in airflow. Certainly in airflow of 25km/h+ it'll not get that hot.

@bertocq

The titanium model includes a feature to reduce the on/off cycling at lower speed. It will still turn the power off but there is a delay before it comes back on and only if the speed reaches a particular level for a period of time (hysteresis).

I take it this is a Garmin GPS with the annoying "Power Lost" warning? They were advised of this two years ago but never issued a fix. So easy to do as well.