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• #1127
But which 36....
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• #1128
Aftermarket 11-34t cassette definitely with a bit of adjusting (IRD being an example).
11-36 if you go single chainring, maybe.
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• #1129
Why not 11-36 with a double? It's long cage mech, I remember running 11-36 on a mtb with triple chainset and same length mech?
I've already got 11-32... 2 extra teeth isn't enough (;
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• #1130
2 extra teeth is a noticeable difference especially with a 34t inner chainring (1-1 ratios).
Define same length, are you talking about the arm, or the arm + body?
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• #1131
Shimano lists 32 as the max capacity so I doubt that a 36 would work
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• #1133
Shimano lists 32 as the max capacity so I doubt that a 36 would work
Manufacturers listed them as the max capacity for a reason, liability.
32t is the biggest you can go without fiddling with the screw limiter much, going further required a fair amount of tweaking.
Old derailleurs usually listed as max 23/24 but happily go over the 14-28t freewheels.
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• #1134
Awesome to read through the process of building and slow transformation of this bike.
Considering a croix de get myself and going to go try one out for size.
I've previously only owned two of different 58cm square steel road frames. Both with relatively short wheelbases. Does anyone here have any tips or guidance on correctly sizing one this bike? -
• #1135
Test them out from a LBS, or Evans to order it in.
58 square mean an Extra Large might do for you.
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• #1136
Can you make me one? Or show me how?
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• #1137
I guess I can make you one, but you just need some brass tube, a hacksaw a hammer (or vice) a drill and a file.
I just flattened a section and then another at right angles to the first. Drill holes to mount light, bend to the required angle and file the ends to a round shape.
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• #1138
I've got a Smithfield Bridge, which I understand is basically a CdF. It's got rear-facing dropouts and Alfine. I'm a bit sick of fixing punctures on this thing as it involves axle nuts, tensioner nuts, releasing the cable on the Alfine and sometimes moving the mudguard. It's also quite weighty.
I'm thinking of having derailleur dropouts switched-in so I can throw Zee 10-speed on there. Then maybe a fresh coat of paint. Might also get a pump peg put on and more bosses for the Blackburn Outpost rack I've got on the front.
What do you reckon?
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• #1139
I reckon you should get some better tyres.
And you've got all necessary mounts for outpost.
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• #1140
That's not my bike - just a Genesis shot. I have Conti CX tyres on at the mo.
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• #1141
5800 long cage will do 36 + 50/34, but at a massive push. B-limit all the way in, and even then you'll hear that dreaded grind, and at times, it'll refuse to drop. I'd just invest in a wolftooth roadlink and you'll be sorted.
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• #1142
Any tips on where the wolftooth roadlink can be purchased in the UK?
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• #1143
If you've changing the bike from hub gears to derailleur gears, carrying out some fairly major frame mods and getting it resprayed, wouldn't it be cheaper and easier just to sell it and get a bike with derailleur gears? Unless the bike has massive sentimental value it seems a rather odd route to take in order to get where you want to get to.
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• #1144
^ This. Or go tubeless and stop puncturing
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• #1145
I don't think I'd get enough for the bike to buy something else, even taking into account what I'd have to pay for alterations.
Although a Big Dummy does appeal...
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• #1147
thank you for the astuce
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• #1148
Nice!
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• #1149
Good news is that 47c wtb horizons' fit very well indeed!
Will need new Mudguards though.
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• #1150
WTB y u no do in all black
I think I read somewhere that 36t works. Was planning to do that