Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Put on the back of the pads some thick grease, and use a saw for vertical or oblique grooves, don't go too deep.

Did someone ask for recommendations of how to completely fuck their brakes up?

Is that for motorcycles or something?

It didn't even address the problem that @root have.

Is that for motorcycles or something?

Nope, just mental.

A mentalcycles!

Rattling, howling.

I want to buy these, but they only have a 160mm rotor. How much of a difference will this make?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/trp-spyre-mechanical-disc-brake-caliper/?referid=affwin&utm_source=affiliate-window&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_campaign=http://www.monetizer101.com&utm_term=169609&utm_content=0

What bike is it going on/what ⌀ rotor is it designed for?
You'll probably need an adaptor to make it work with 160mm, or else just buy the right sized rotor

I have 140mm rotors on the bike already, it's a genesis croix de fer. Is the brake mechanism the same? Does it just mean I'm buying a different sized rotor?

Yes, just different sized rotor. Some places stock the spyre with 140 rotors too, but none very cheaply

Are you're current brakes using is to post adapters?

If so, chances are you could buy the Spyres and use with your 140mm adapters and rotors no?

Yes, I probably could. Quite like the idea of new rotors as current ones are quite worn and a bit deformed. Anyone have experience flattening rotors?

Flattening or truing? If the latter then it's a pretty straight forward job with either the Park (or other brand) tool for it or a clean shifter.

Flattening or truing>

Well, the discs have a slight wobble in them in the same sense as a wheel rim, so they rub the pads slightly on the way round. What the difference between flattening and truing?

I'd call that truing do yeah, simple enough.

Thought they might be more out of shape than that or something.

Just use a small adjustable.

To put everyone's mind at rest regarding my stiff rear brake lever.
Replaced the outer cable this evening and it's now lovely and smooth. I think I must have damaged the outer cable internally when threading the brake cable through. This time I threaded the cable through before wrapping the bars so there was no severe bend when pushing the cable through.

Shimano R785s. Can anyone explain to me why the calliper is only contacting half of the disc rotor? Was fine with the same adapter and spyres. Looks almost like it would work without the adapter, but then it'll never work with 140mm discs which is what it was designed for?

Identical issue on the front too. I'm sure I've just set something up wrong, but dunno what

2 Attachments

Is the adapter mounted backwards? I can see an arrow on the adapter that I would expect to point forward. It certainly looks like it would bring the calliper into the right position.

Oh hrm was going to say that the front is on the other way round, but actually looks like that's probably it

1 Attachment

Further question, I've read that hanging bikes with Hydralic calipers for storage is not a good idea. How bad is this actually likely to be?
Apparently keeping the levers pressed will keep the reservoir clear of air bubbles?

Sorry for all the n00b questions

I store mine (near) vertically at work and I have to pump the lever a few times to get the feeling back. Haven't noticed a long term drop in performance though...

Keeping the leaver pressed will prevent air in the reservoir heading towards the caliper where it can cause trouble.

To be fair tho a good bleed should prevent you from having to do this.

Cool beans

Anyone got Ultegra di2 install/bleed doc link handy?

Sent via email