Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UT6h7Sfn4bc

a further 30 mins of wiggling produced nothing

I've spent almost an hour trying to push it through, pulling it back, pushing again, nothing.

?

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Needs more lube

Stahp, crying

Make a 'fishhook' out of some metal wire, thread the cable through the toptube and lift the brake cable up through the hole with the hook thingie

Make a 'fishhook' out of some metal wire, thread the cable through the toptube and lift the >brake cable up through the hole with the hook thingie

heard about a lad who did that once, ended up in A&E with the fishhook stuck through the hole 😳

srs tho this is the correct answer. Cabled my Giant like this with a paperclip in about 20mins with minimal swearing.

Magnet, really strong magnet and a single spokes (a broken Dahon/Tern have a good one).

The magnet to move the cable about, and the spokes to "hook" the cable and pull it up.

thread tied at the end of the cable and a vacuum cleaner, two min job.

What I did was bend the cable just slightly enough to push it out in one push. you have to rotate the cable itself and move it cm at a time *which is kinda annoying as rotating the cable is hard if you're using your fingers. When you see it getting close to the hole, in which point a torch will be handy, start rotating until you see the cable end.

Edit : Amey's idea might be a good one. Doubt a knot will hold though, might slip out of the cable, maybe superglue the thread itself to the cable then vacuum the thread out?

a magnet and an old brake cable did the trick !

You don't even need to tie a knot in the end. Just use a really long piece of thread, push it in on one side and use the hoover on the other, then thread the out cable along it.

Get the crystal

.

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Bravo! Thats an excellent tip!

I managed to thread it through with in 2 mins when I built the bike (my luck was good that day), then when I changed my bars from an internally routed pair to a normal pair (which was a monumental task, that took longer than building the bike in the first place) I took me at least 90mins of swearing.

I re-cabled an internally routed Ribble recently, that was incredibly easy.

Moonrise CAD12

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Looking good. Is it ready to go?

Almost, Matt is doing some final finishing. Much excite.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/cannondale-caad4-road-bike-/1173989657
Nice frame, decent price

Anyone on here find recent CAAD top tubes far too wide?
I've been riding a CAAD8 (from factory Sora-equipped bike, w/BSA threaded BB, @colin2011 ) for a few months, but think I'm going to have to get rid of it because it hurts!
Order of thoughts/injuries/adjustments:

• CAAD8; first road biek, after riding track etc etc...
  
• Developed knee pain on short rides >50km
  
• Figured something to do with Q-factor
  
• Moved cleats inboard to compensate for wider Q of (DA7800) road c'set.
  
• Adjustment caused knees to hit/thighs to rub TT when pedalling, particularly when out of saddle.
  
• Subconsciously began to modify shape of leg to avoid this while pedalling, particularly when out of saddle.
  
• Developed hip pain of rides around 50km as a result...
  
  

Anybody else experienced this/found a resolution?
I stripped the parts and put them on an old Raleigh 531C frame (skinny top tube) and it feels (heavy, but) sublime by comparison, so If anyone wants a (raw) 'dale frameset, let me know.

I don't think the tubing is noticeably wider than any other modern road bike.

wouldnt say the top tube is any wider than my old cervelo or hong fu

Must just be me/my previous bikes/pedalling style then :-(

Q-factor has nothing to do with top tubes...