Dynamo hubs

PM'd you the form.

Ready to begin testing, I was waiting for some further benchmarking equipment to arrive.

Also after a Sinewave and B&M Werk. Will pay the postage both ways and guarantee survival/condition. It'll only take a day to record the figures.

Not sure whether to post here or in the dyno-lights thread (and also think I've already seen it on here somewhere) but anyway: if you want to run the SP disc hub with a trp spyre brake, you have to space out the rotor about a mm from the hub using washers, or the brake won't clear the spokes. Learned this today.

Don't suppose you know if the same applies to hy/rd?

No idea I'm afraid. Never used hy/rd. I think it might have been @xkittyx who had the same issue on their custom bike, I'll have a look through CP.

Yep, had same problem on my Hartley using a kinesis tracer 1.5 fork and spoon hub, changed to bb7s in the end and am loving them.

In case you missed it, Rose do a build service using this dynamo hub and Mavic A319 and a few others. Price is very competitive.

Just brought the spokes (black natch) and am going to build the wheel myself. Need to give back the truing stand I'm using to @MultiGrooves

Benchmarks against Supernova The Plug coming up soon. Thanks to @hippy for sending one in!

Edit: I better not publish any figures just yet.

Anyone using the schmidt rear light? Looks nice and tidy -

http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/ruecklichter_en.html

I'd be interested to know. Let me know.
As if it's a lot better. I'll need one for TCR. Because watts saved!

nabendynamo.de/produkte/rueck­lichter_en.html

I originally ordered one, had to change the order though as it needs to be paired with a Schmidt (or other AC producing front light if there are any?) to work properly.

if you want to run the SP disc hub with a trp spyre brake, you have to space out the rotor about a mm from the hub using washers...

Anyone know if this is an issue with Shimano hubs? Just put a Spyre on the rear of my Day One and fancy changing the front at some point too.

Perhaps I'll just have to save up for Hylixs if its going to be a problem!

Good tip. Do you know if it's possible to buy just the front wheel? Can't see it

Here's the results.

I'm using a 11.28V AC transformer but the efficiency difference should be the same as neither is dropping the additional voltage as heat (both use switch mode converters) and if any zener's are apparent in The Plug (as they are in the D1 to protect against very high speed with no device attached) then they've not activated.

I'll repeat it with a 6V AC transformer soon but the difference between them should remain the same. The actual efficiency for both will probably go down a little (this is due to rectifying diodes having a relatively constant voltage drop).

Load is a 10 ohm resistor, which best simulates a 500mA output (aka USB2). This is also the typical output at normal speed (6V*0.5A) = 3W.

Edit: see image below, I was off by 1%.

Conclusion

D1 - 10% more efficient @ USB 2 500mA load.

I had a brain fart and used the non input voltage drop. Corrected in the data below.

1 Attachment

Whoops, this is the Plug 3, which comes with a "Pat 2" cylinder. My apologies.

Using the chart provided by Supernova, that means if you want 500mA, (a good standard on which to know your phone is going to charge and be able to still use GPS), then you will have to average 21kph.

Source: http://www.cyclingabout.com/review-tout-terrain-the-plug-iii/

1 Attachment

Wow^ dedicated.

One question: if your phone has gps, why have a separate gps device?

Because it sucks being lost and having no way to call for help at the same time.

Take a map and HTFU?

Bcause your phone won't record your ride data.

Ride data. Right.

I thought the input voltage wouldn't make that much difference in the efficiency between units, but I was wrong.

Using a small 6V power supply and a light load (a rear LED light) the D1 is 19.6% more efficient.

I'm awaiting on a larger 6V transformer to redo the 500mA test.

1 Attachment

Phone batteries often don't last as long as dedicated GPS
Phones are too big for some bar setups
Redundancy - having a backup device is nice (I typically carry 3 because Garmin fail!)
Weatherproofness - Dedicated bike GPS units are designed to sit on handlebars in rain and vibrations, phones are not.

There are some decent mapping apps for phones though - some people definitely use phones instead of Garmins.

A what?

They do. Some phones have built-in ANT+ some can have ANT+ added.