I'm running it on a SRAM Red cassette. It can be fractionally slow for the chain to move after the derailleur has shifted; I wouldn't say the derailleur movement itself is actually slow. The speed of the chain following the derailleur can vary depending on which cog, it does seem a little reluctant down at the smaller end of the cassette. I wonder if this is where the Shimano cassette might help.
I have spent many, many hours try to finesse the front derailleur position to avoid any slight chain rub on big chain-ring-biggest three cogs (not that I intend to use big-big but I'm a perfectionist and I want to know it would be spot-on if I did). In that respect, I think the Shimano model where the front derailleur trims itself is much better - Sram instead stubbornly insist the Yaw design means it isn't necessary, but it must have been possible to programme in. Mind you, I had pretty much the same problem with Red 20, so I wonder if I am towards the limits of bike geometry compatibility with Yaw anyway.
I'm running it on a SRAM Red cassette. It can be fractionally slow for the chain to move after the derailleur has shifted; I wouldn't say the derailleur movement itself is actually slow. The speed of the chain following the derailleur can vary depending on which cog, it does seem a little reluctant down at the smaller end of the cassette. I wonder if this is where the Shimano cassette might help.
I have spent many, many hours try to finesse the front derailleur position to avoid any slight chain rub on big chain-ring-biggest three cogs (not that I intend to use big-big but I'm a perfectionist and I want to know it would be spot-on if I did). In that respect, I think the Shimano model where the front derailleur trims itself is much better - Sram instead stubbornly insist the Yaw design means it isn't necessary, but it must have been possible to programme in. Mind you, I had pretty much the same problem with Red 20, so I wonder if I am towards the limits of bike geometry compatibility with Yaw anyway.