• Thanks - i think Howard is closer to home.

  • Anyone got / used an infocrank? I may be getting my hands on one to fiddle with.

    I'm taking it to a shop to install as I'm shite at things like that and need it fitted quick, but i was just wondering if there's much faff involved in the initial calibration process? Have read a few reviews and whatnot and it's not been mentioned really.

  • My track powertap hub started unscrewing the yesterday with any backward pressure, is it a case of bunging some extra loctite in, or will i need to send it back cycleops for something more major?

  • A few fullgas sprints should get it tightly wound back into position.

  • is fucked sell to me

  • then i'm fucked, will sell to @umop3pisdn for a fiver

  • Alternatively, a good heave-ho with a chainwhip should get it nice and tight again.

  • Aim bike at wall
    Balance
    Jump on forward pedal

  • Or...

    Aim bike at wall
    Pedal
    Hit wall
    Keep pedalling

    That should do it.

  • That's another method. I broke my wookie doing it that way though.

  • Is a stages g2 crank arm gonna make me a better cyclist?

  • Only if you were missing a crank arm.

  • Been offered a da stage g2 arm for a good price, just weighing up what it'll bring to my training \ performance...

  • People in this thread are notoriously anti-stages. If you can get one cheap and a copy of training and racing with a power meter, probably a fair amount imo

  • To be fair, I think the aversion is to all single sided power meters. It just happens that Stages is the most common type of single sided power meter. I'd agree it's better than nothing.

  • I'm thinking about selling my Sram rival stages - not really using it much now. It's one of the later ones without battery issues.

  • I'm aware of the distain for single sided power meters on here, but if I want to get into power based training and want to switch between multiple bikes. Is a one sided pedal based system all that bad? As long as it's consistent, isn't that all that matters?

  • That's one of the problems, its not consistent. LR balance changes with power and cadence, sometimes by a large amount in some people.

  • Just don't.
    Find a second hard srm or p2m.
    Or just save and buy new p2m.

  • That's one of the problems, its not consistent. LR balance changes with power and cadence, sometimes by a large amount in some people.

    My Pioneer is "true" L/R (as opposed to P2M etc), here's a ride file for a ride I did recently that had a fair amount of steady state sub-threshold in it (climbing Flagstaff): http://tpks.ws/J4e16

    47.4/52.6 was the result, which with Stages would have given me a total figure which would be ~5% down on what it should be.

    I'm normally somewhere between 46/54 to 48/52 - double sided that doesn't matter of course, single sided and it'd add quite a degree of (invisible) variability.

  • enter code here
    

    I'm not sure that will work for me. I have a TT bike (square taper 1x11) , a winter bike (hollowtech) and a LOOK 695 with the integrated see cranks.

    Currently I'm doing trainer road with estimated power so anything must be better than that!

  • Get a pedal based one then. Much easier to swap over than a crank.

  • Edit - which are the least frowned upon? Powertap pedals appear the easiest to switch, but the cleats are not quite keo which is annoying.

  • Yes, if you can afford it.

    Don't expect it to be some magic panacea though, like any tool you need to learn how to use it properly to get the maximum benefit. Only you can decide if you think the outlay is worthwhile.

  • Garmin vector.

    I think they've fixed the issues they had with early ones. Though I think they're still expensive.

    Mine were accurate. But the spindles were shit and leaked grease.

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About

Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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