Fixing Punctures / Puncture Repair / Exploding Tubes

Vulcanising solution is much better

Yep, he melds the patch onto the inner tube.

Mind magnets

It's not glue ffs

And cable doesn't need stretching, it's the housing that need compression, but it's easier to explain it.

Look good if it work as explained. Only downside is if you can't find where the puncture is:

http://road.cc/content/news/121820-video-patchnride-fixes-punctures-60secs

They supply a leak detector
How patchnride Works - YouTube

It seems marathon supremes on velocity a23 rims is a combo I don't want anything to do with ever again if possible! Going to be investing in all manner of fancy tyre levers just in case.

You need this;

Might get that for the home (Is it the Simson tyre mate). Luckily I have a PDW 3Wrencho in my commuter bag for my Pompetamine rear axle, the lever on which was my saviour, but I don't necessarily want to be carrying that on the road bike, both for the weight and because I will forget to swap it between bikes.

Is the VAR lever any good for a similar (to the tyre mate) saddle bag option? Possibly coupled with one of these or these (a cheaper option?) if the VAR lever is no good.

While I am at it, any recommendations for patch kits, the puncture I got changing tyres is the first I have had in many years.

The new A 23 is a tubeless ready rim and like pretty much all rims with a tubeless internal design, is a bit tight. You need a "compliant" tyre or a good set of thumbs/levers combined with a good technique.

Might get that for the home (Is it the Simson tyre mate).

Yup, also known as the Koolstop Tire Bead Jack.

I think my wheels have the tubeless ready rim sidewinder if you want to give that a go .. just check the rim profile but I am 77% sure.

The new A 23 is a tubeless ready rim and like pretty much all rims with a tubeless internal design, is a bit tight. You need a "compliant" tyre or a good set of thumbs/levers combined with a good technique.

Putting the summer tyres on was fine, they being much more compliant (still required a lever to get the last bit on). It was getting the marathons off that caused the main issue, it was ok to pop the bead off in one place, but then so tight as to make it very difficult to push the lever round to unseat the tyre/get a second lever in.

Reading up it seems the shallow profile means you are better off using thin rim tape rather than the Velox cloth stuff as the shallow profile of the inner bit of the rim, combined with thick(ish) cloth tape means you lose the channel in which you can normally 'drop' the bead into to give yourself some working room.

Some people recommend Kapton tape as being thin, good and in fact the same stuff resold in tubeless tape kits, so I might try that if/when the tyres next come off. Pleasingly (in hindsight having now found this out) I switched the Velox cloth tape on one of the rims, which had rolled away from some of the spoke holes, with a bike ribbon strip which I fortuitously had in my spares box.

Is talc'ing/similar the inner tubes worthwhile at all?

I think my wheels have the tubeless ready rim sidewinder if you want to give that a go

It seems they are, so I might give that a look when cyclocross season comes round, at the moment I am just looking forward to getting some road miles in and hearing the click of the Hope freewheel.

Gorilla tape does the job - can be bought in a huge roll and cut to width, on the roll, with a stanley knife. Provides a good enough seal for tubeless if you want to try it out.

Assume, after deflating the marathon tyer, you pushed the bead into the rim's central channel?

I usually just use electric tape, is there's a reason why I shouldn't?

Not really, whatever works, works I guess. Gorilla tape is pretty tough and bit thicker, so you can use it to build up the bead lock area if you having difficulty getting tubeless tyers to seal.

Good thinking about Gorilla tape, thought I have unlimited access to Stan's tape at work if I decided to dip into the whole tubeless lark.

Assume, after deflating the marathon tyer, you pushed the bead into the rim's central channel?

Indeed, but a combination of ineptitude/inexperience (I rarely puncture, no idea why), probable weak hands and the shallow rim depth and velox cloth tape means there is not much central channel to work with. I am obviously going to choose to blame the rim central channel/cloth tape rather than myself ;-)

In my defence as a result of purchasing wheels, tyres wearing out and swapping tyre round I have uninstalled/reinstalled about 8 tyres in the last week and it was only getting the marathons off the a23s that caused me major grief.

I cannot fix 23c tubes, I just can't do it, it baffles my mind.

The tubes are too narrow for the patches and it's difficult to seal the patch around from the inside to the outside of the tube without it leaking air afterwards.

Genuinely stumped, done it plenty times when I was younger

Let the glue dry for 5 minutes before applying the patch.

smaller patches. Rema tip top f0 for example. Or apply scissors to larger patches.

Apologies if this has been done to death, I'm at my wits end. Weinemann rim, constant punctures ranging from an inch to 4 inches away from valve hole on spoke side of innertube.
I've looked for anything sharp, filed anything that could be potentially causing it, put velox tape on + the previous rim tape over the top of that. Made sure I've not pinched the tube when putting it on. Tried different makes of innertube.

Sometimes I think I've done it. Put the wheel back on the bike. 30mins later pfffffff. It's driving me insane.

Any thoughts very welcome please

Pinching between the two rim tapes? I'd never run anything else along with velox, just shouldn't need it.

DP18? I found that the rim bed was so stupidly narrow that a chunky tyre bead would end up pinching the inner tube.

Killer mosquitoes.