Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Check the clearance from caliper to spokes. If you lace the right way, that will open up when you brake, if you lace the wrong way it will close up. If there's at least 2mm clearance with no load, I wouldn't bother to relace. On the other hand, I'd have done it right first time ☺

Got velocith blunt sl rims not my favourite a bit flexy for me. The wheels are fine but i woild not build them with lasers or cx rays.

Kinlin xr 22 rrs ocr disc brake rims are ace. The ryde pulse sprint is all black. Both these rims have offset drilling. D lights spokes are fine but for high miles use trople butted spokes. You can get round this with a deep rim like the velocity aileron or the kinlin xr31 rts ocr. The dt rr511bd would be good too. I have found 24h deep disc brake rims are fine with load when laced with cxrays.

I ride a set of ailerons 24h laced to novatec hubs with cx rays. Weight under 1600g.

So I did this and there was enough clearance... but now I know it's wrong I'm going to have to undo it :(

Gah, 18 spokes to relace - there's going to be a lot of nipples lost in rims!

If you inflate the tyre the nipples will stay put.

Depends on the rim, anything double walled without double eyelets will swallow nipples.

Yep, definitely of the double-walled-eats-nipples variety!

cue an evening of much swearing

Ah yes. Bad luck. It'd be easiest to take the tyre/tube/tape off then, unless you have a tubeless setup in which case your swearing will be doubled.

If you have a spare spoke, I've found you can use that to thread into the nipple from the rim bed side, and use that to take it out. Also seen people use a cut off shaft of a q-tip

Mercifully not even put the rim tape on yet and never even touched tubeless!

Threading nipple onto spare spoke proved invaluable for getting the things in, I hope I can reverse the process.

Why did I get 30mm rims again?!?!

You are a slave to the (maybe) aer0z.

In other news...

Managed to perform a lucky direct swap on my knackered rim, a DRC ST17 (Open Pro copy) to a wider Campagnolo Montreal 76. Very similar ERD, kept my spokes, easy peezy lemon squeezy.

Does anyone have these to borrow over the bank holiday?

I'm assuming you've measured a few DT R460 rims, so could you tell me the typical real ERD? And is the ERD consistent?

I'm trying to organise a rim replacement and I'm in Africa, got to get the order right first time...

I'm planning a track wheelset, 24h front and rear DT R460DB on zenith, will 24h be enough? or will it just be better to go 28 or 32?

What do you weigh? That might come into it.

73kg

What do you weigh? That might come into it.

Only if he's well over 100kg ☺

Should I not have got the offset rim for the front? I'm sure I asked on here about it and someone said offset front is still good for disc. Scherrit is saying it shouldn't be offset front.

Any ideas? Do you have non-offset version of what I bought, if that's better front option?

Cheers

I'm sure I asked on here about it and someone said offset front is still good for disc

It is, since most* front disc hubs are asymmetric with respect to the flange offset from centreline. Just treat the rotor side as the drive side when building and all will be well.

*Any other symmetric offers beyond the Schmidt SON28 in Boost110 form?

This is with an SP dyno CentreLock. TBW said it's symmetrical.

If it's a symmetrical hub then you don't want an offset rim.

You!

Turns out SP hubs aren't offset so I need another rim.

banned

You could've told me that before I ordered them.

My sincerest apologies.

?
We were talking about shimano hubs before that.....