Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

Intredasting....

That's the fella. Looked chunky.

As have I! Must be cracking on 3 yrs old now and still going strong. Actually use they on my road bike too with CB Candys.

Cheers lads!

I've asked in the stack/Reach thread. But maybe folk here can help better.

Over the weekend I calculated my old 29er to have a stack of around 600mm.
I calculated my fatbike to have a stack of around 592mm.

I was climbing a sloopy snow covered trail that was mostly 10%, and maxed a few times at 18%, on Sunday. I found keeping the front end pressed Down hard enough to stay within the ridable compacted bit was tricky. But doable.

So I obviously started thinking of the New build. Checked the geo chart and Commencal quote a stack of 551mm. Which is like 4 or 5cm lower. Seems a massive difference. The Reach is pretty much the same for all 3 bikes. So they're pretty much the same size.

Am I missing something here?

PM me the details of all three bikes and I can draw up some bikecads for you.

It's much easier to understand if you can see direct comparisons.

@Smallfurry

Forgive me for not following your build with the attention it deserves, what stage are you at? Do you have the frame and rear shock yet? Did you decide on a fork?

My suggestion is to build it with the fork length that the company recommend or it'll steer like a confused hippo, use a 60mm stem or longer or shorter if you prefer, bars of at least 745mm and a rear shock with a platform that you can switch on the shock, not on the bars.

I assume that this will not help.

Arent you subscribed to the 'whats currently eating furry' newsletter?

Shame on you.

But I have a frame. A Commencal Meta SL. I have a Remote shock which required a bodge to fit. I've sold that and purchased a shinny gold shock With loads of dials. None of which i can Reach. So much safer.

I am going to get forks that fit.

I have 750mm bars. this frame has much the same Reach as my 29er. That had a 90mm stem With massively sweeped bars. So more like 70mm. I am trying to decide between 50 and 60mm to get much the same fit while compensating for much wider bars. Maybe I should start a thread. It'd be exciting.

So actually Your post helpful ;)

You probably know this but bar/stem ratio of 2:1 applies so in my case increasing bar width from 660 to 710 meant moving from 90mm to 7omm stem gave me the same distance from the nose of the saddle to the centre of the grips. Weight distribution seems the same even though I can now see the front axle.

My Maths say 15mm, 0 degree rise stem. When I take into account frame Reach, bar sweep and bar length. Moving from my 29er to this bike. Meh. Gonna get a 50mm. Screw Maths.

Anyone hired MTBs in Morzine?

I have 10 speed SLX (non clutch) and have just bought a 32 NW and a 11-42 sun race cassette.

Can I use my current mech or do I need a new one? Is there a clutch derailleur suitable for 10 speed 11-42 or do I need to get a 10 speed shadow + and a goat link?

Finding this all tres confusing!

a narrow-wide and a 10 speed clutch derailleur will be enough to avoid chain drop...seen a few setups like that and the riders swear by them

The 42 is a bit of a stretch for standard rear mechs. It might work with an extra long B screw I think, but shift Quality to the big ring will be ropey.
I solved this with a one industries cage thing as I'd heard good things. It swaps out one side of a medium cage shimano rear.
As for clutch, you could try without and see how u go. The clutch is signified by the + in the name. Shadow is just marketing bumpf I think. All clutch mechs are shadow, but some shadow aren't clutch.
Make sense?

A clutch reduces the likelihood of dropping the chain, as does a narrow/wide chainring. You can use one or t'other (generally OK) or both (even better). The clutch aspect of the mech shouldn't have any bearing on its capacity (max sprocket size, total difference).

If the one industries cage or goat link work with non clutch mechs, your budget option is start with that and see how you go. If you drop the chain often, you can upgrade to a clutch mech.

You could try the old mech on its own first to see, but I reckon the shift to the big ring at the back will poor (may be ok with a 40 but 42 is quite a leap)

Additionally, I run a steel hardtail, and with the clutch off, I get noisy chain slap on the chainstay which would no doubt progress to a scratched up bare metal chainstay in no time. Flick the clutch on, and the silence is golden.

https://youtu.be/aGSKrC7dGcY

Will an 11 speed xt shadow + work with 10 speed? If so I might as well just get one because it's cheaper than buying a 10 sp + a goat link...

I know Shimano rear mechs have always been cross compatible but I thought I read somewhere they changed the cable pull for the mtb 11 sp.

Thanks for the help guiz

This thread goes round in a couple of circles before deciding that it should work....
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/will-11-speed-derailleur-work-10-speed-shifter-988005.html

If you go for it, let me know, as this is probably a nice stop gap way of expanding my system up to 11 speed in two stages....

An slx works with a 42 sunrace cassette....my mate has this setup on his krampus. Just sort the 'B' screw adjustment.....it looks really tight, but it works. A NW ring really helps, but the clutch rear mech does the donkey work.....

Checked with my bike mechanic mate, who confirmed my recollection of grumbling about Shimano having departed from their previously cross-compatible ways...

The actuation ratio (movement of the cage per unit of cable pulled) is different across 10 and 11 spd mechs, and also the narrower jockey wheels on the 11 spd version may introduce a bit of vagueness when run with 10 spd chain.

As per that MTBR thread though, you may get away with it...

Why is life so hard

Will try setting up with the mech I have but maybe a zee mech with a goat link would be the way to go.

Who makes custom crowns for dual-crown forks?

My mate runs a Zee with a 42t expander ring. He HAS taken out one of the sprockets though. He either climbs or smashes it down so chucked 20/21t away and replaced it with a 42t up top.

Yeah, if you buy an expander you have to lose one of the middle cogs. If you buy the sunrace cassettes they are built with a 42 already. Mine has been flawless to date so really happy.

@TM - make sure you get the right zee mech. One version is designed for downhill and wont be so good on a dinner plate cassette.