Road Wheels & Road Wheel Recommendations?

Over what time period? Had my gravel kings on for 5 months now, still a ball ache to get back on.

It depend on the tyres really, high end race tyres stretch noticeably, touring tyres less so.

Gravel King sit inbetween.

Or you're just doing it wrong.

I've done about 1000 miles on DT swiss r24 DBs with no issues so far. I got mine from bike24 for £150ish I think, but not sure where still has them in stock.

Over any time period.

Often it's soft sidewalled race tyres that'll have the tightest fitting beads, but touring tyres can have the stiffer, less-stretchy beads (I guess because they're built for durability, mileage and not down to a weight).

It's the stiffer sidewall combine with the beads that make it tricky.

Don't seem to available anywhere. Aksiums decent? Centre lock or 6 bolt?

Jontea may feel otherwise :) The Gravel King has soft sidewall doesn't it?

Hell YOU may feel otherwise ... although these are quite stiff ...

Ok. Open pave, bitch to fit (race tyre)
Gravel king, bitch to fit (inbetween tyre)
Pasela, piece of piss to fit (tour tyre).
Supple sidewall doth not maketh a supple bead.
And @edscoble, one has not reached the tender age of 43 without learning how to fit tyres to a bicycle wheel. Doing it wrong, the nerve of the man! ;-)

Gravel Kings need to stay on at lower pressures than a Pasela.

Nothing else I could personally recommend... And the r24s were tester's suggestion when I was looking at kinesis's wheels at double the price. There's these Cosine wheels too, but a bit pricier and I don't know how they compare to the aksiums.

Centre lock. Quicker and simpler.

Cant help but think the Cosines look a bit flimsy, 1610 grams hardly inspires confidence. Anyone ridden them?

I rode the dt swiss r24, they came stock on the focus. Seemed fine enough.

No. Iron Cross are limited. Crest will do road pressures.

Reading around this @Howard appears to be wrong and @amey seems to be right - see warning sticker on the Crest rims:

(That's on a 29er rim, apparently).

I presume 1.0 = 1", 1.5 = 1.5" etc? Does this apply to non-tubeless use though?

But I've found the wheelbuilding thread so it makes more sense to ask more questions about this wheel build there.

wheelset for winter road bike... what's the go-to these days? can probably stretch to £150. should I just plump for shimano rs010s?

or something in the superstar components sale? worried these might not be bombproof enough

Grail are intended for road/gravel usage I think.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fulcrum-racing-7-lg-cx-alloy-clincher-wheelset/

These are pretty solid, and have better seals over the bearings so should last longer too

Hah, thanks mate. I'll just leave this here.

@dancing james 's commuto-cross. He's since moved to Pacenttis (sp?)

The pressures on the rim are the pressures for tubless MTB tyres - as is the intended application of Crest.

Amey - before he edited his post - suggested Iron Cross, which are definitely not compatible with road pressures.

Although he's right in that Grail might be worth exploring.

You're tiny and light, the Crest will be fine on you.

Thanks, it was in my interests for you to be right!

I've had a read of the @dancing james thread which was very helpful, as I now know these will definitely work.

He has switched from those to Pacenti SL25's which I've also been looking at, so I will grill him about which he prefers :)

awesome, thanks

Does this apply to non-tubeless use though?

Yes, the tube makes no material difference to the hoop stress in the tyre carcase, which is what's trying to tear the rim apart.

Not what Notubes told James:
https://www.lfgss.com/comments/8868294/

(Sadly the link is dead so no proof but I'll ask if he ran road pressures and didn't die).

Not what Notubes told James

I have approximately zero trust in Notubes technical competence.