Any question answered...

This happens when the chain is not crossed.

I concur that it may have a slight rub, usually when you cross chain.

He's not cross-chaining

Derailleurs angle then

I think it to be something as simple as this. If it doesn't rub 3 gears down, then surely tilting the derailleur ever so slightly out the way, would sort it out?

I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a brake hood for an SRAM Rival Hydraulic lever? Mines torn and it seems my google-fu is lacking

What chainset is it?

Sometime with those derailleur, it need to be in a tiny bit of an angle to shift well, but to be quite honest, it's really tricky talking about it without looking at it in my workshop.

I have older 10spd Ultegra and when I shift up into the big ring, I get some rubbing but there's a half click back on the lever that moves the derailleur out of the way a little bit without shifting down.

Have you tried this?

Yeh, I had been told about this but it didn't really do much.
I think I'm just going to have to wheel it along to the local (different) bike shop. If I look at it again, or hear that rubbing again, it's going under a bus, I may or may not be on it.

Thank you all for your suggestions

Damn. Thanks.

Alloy jockey wheels a waste of time and money? They seem to be all over eBay but RDs come with the rubbery ones

Tacx ones are decent replacements.

Alloy jockey wheels a waste of time and money?

Probably, depends what you're trying to achieve. Jockey wheels would be the first (and quite likely last) place I'd choose ceramic bearings on a bike, so if you're swapping to ceramics and they happen to be wrapped in aluminium wheels, there's no harm. There might be some hysteresis losses in the plastic ones, so if you're after a few mW of marginal gain it would certainly be worth measuring to see if metal ones made a difference. The corollary is that metal ones are almost certain to be noisier.

Ta. Didn't realise the carrier was steel vs alu. In that case I'll go for the ultegra as they are going on some posh wheels I wouldn't mind keeping the freehub in slightly better nick for.

1x

Any experience of returning tyres to Wiggle?

I'd like to get two different pairs to compare the size and return one, but they would have been mounted (but not ridden).

EDIT
Wiggle say "yes" provided they are in the original, undamaged packaging.

Low/fair mileage gatorskin, noticed after today's ride there's a hole in the sidewall, inner tube was like a bubble pulsing out.

Is there a safe fix? Or must I bin it?

Can boot it, but it's not normally considered a permanent fix.

Will I be alright using a medium cage mech on a 1x10 with an 11-40 cassette. I think so but just double checking.

What is the current flavour of the month for a good value bomb proof fixed gear wheelset?

I've been riding V-Sprints for years but quality has gone downhill in recent times.

Don't mind spending as long as they'll last a while.

If the max tooth of the mech is 40t or more, and if the chain capacity equal to or greater than the result of your largest cog subtracting your smallest, then yes you'll be fine

So some of you may remember the nonsense I had with my bike at the weekend.
After it being at another bike store to be fine tuned, the consensus is that it is flex on the chain ring, when being put under heavy load.
I was told that there always will be a bit of rub due to it being a slightly inferior chainset (fsa gossamer 46/36) and that if it continues to bug me then I should consider a better chainset that wouldn't have as much flex, a 105 or ultegra I was told.
Who agrees with this?

Just brought a Hollowtech II chainset for my MTB (I know, how modern) to replace the ST Hollowtech I. Regarding BBs are any of the non-Shimano Hollowtech II bottom brackets worth bothering with?
I'd rather stick to the cheaper end of the market (lots of ones on ebay I've mostly not heard of: Aerozine, Token, Truvelo, Rabid, GUB). I've got a Hope one on my steel road bike and its lovely but as its my MTB it might get submerged so happy just to keep replacing the cheap ones. Or should I just get Shimano's own Deore level one?

For £10 I would just get the Deore one

Its not the cost that I'm worried about. I was just wondering if any of them are better products (but the same price), or worth paying a bit more for.