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• #75752
Just noticed this while photographing my frame. Is this intentional or is the clamp fucked? My friend is saying it might not be a crack and just a notch to stop the seatbolt from spinning but I don't think so.
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• #75753
Schmitzebud.
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• #75754
It's fucked
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• #75756
Shit
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• #75758
Do not know where to put this
It has been in every other thread, might as well go here too.
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• #75759
Yeah. I'm too thick to get it tho.
Would an 8 speed Shimano brifter pull an 8 speed campag rear mech the right distance?
And does 0.1mm actually matter IRL anyway?
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• #75760
8spd shim to 8 spd campag don't work above 4th
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• #75761
You can mix & match in some circumstances, but you'd have to search for "shimergo" to see if what you have will work.
There's a thread on here, but the definitive resource is on CTC.
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• #75762
Question 1: is it possible to convert a shimano free hub from 9 speed to 11 speed (forlorn hope)?
Question 2: 105 5800 cable installation... I've looked at the manual, I've Googled, but I still can't work out which hope the gear cable goes in to..?
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• #75763
Shimano freehubs are usually, 8,9,10 speed or 8,9,10,11 speed. They can be converted but is a far from trivial task requiring machining of the freehub, and usually not cost effective.
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=115919
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• #75764
I know This is a single speed website but I need advice on the shimano ultegra 6800 11 speed I'm running on my cross bike. No matter how much adjusting has been done, limit screws, tension, there is still rubbing coming from the front mech when I'm in the hardest gear. The local mechanics have shown me that it's due to flex on the chain ring when under pressure and because the ultegra is set up so compact. Is there anything I can do or am I stuck with a new noisy cross bike?
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• #75765
It should just be back off the H limit screw and maybe add more cable tension, you should be able to go too far so doesn't rub in your hardest gear but might in half of the rest of them unless your chainring is bent or or not on straight. I doubt you're putting enough power through the ring to flex it more than other people who can have it work fine.
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• #75766
Also, presumably you know it has the two trim settings? So set it up so the big shift takes it right over to the big ring, and doesn't rub on the bottom half of the cassette, and then the trim down should keep you clear in the bottom half.
http://www.moonigan.co.uk/index.php/2015/05/15/how-to-setup-a-shimano-ultegra-6800-front-derailleur/
Is really useful
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• #75767
That's the thing, there is no rub until the 2 hardest gears, and then its only when they are under pressure.
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• #75768
Back off the H a tiny bit and test it under pressure, and as said use trim for the rest of cassette. Might be worth checking chainring bolts and BB for play too.
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• #75769
I'm beginning to think the mech isn't sitting high enough above the chain ring, after watching some YouTube videos.
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• #75770
Looks about right, I wouldn't put it higher.
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• #75771
I take it it's nice and straight and the cable is routed properly.
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• #75773
This sort of thing is going beyond me now. I don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to front derailleurs. I just know that I've had it up to the shop I got it from 3 times, one of the mechanics is an old pal, and what they consensus is, it will always make a slight rub under pressure. I think I need to take it somewhere else for another opinion.
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• #75774
I concur that it may have a slight rub, usually when you cross chain.
Sometime there's not much you can do.
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• #75775
.
8spd q:
Can I make a simmyno cassette work with campag brifters and/or rear mech? Or do all 3 bits have to be one brand or tother?