26" mountain bikes

I've just joined the club.

It's my first evAr mountain bike. I don't have any photographs as my phone is kaputt.

It's a time-warp Cannondale M500 (in Icelandic Green, not blue.)

All OG except for the stem (the original owner didn't like the position, changed the stem, still didn't like it and put it into the garage where it's been since 1995) and the tyres which were perished so new ones were put on to help with the sale. It even looks to have the original brake pads and cables. It's one of these:

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Excuse the stem and shoddy photography.

Minty fresh and lovely. Kill the stem, tho :)

Already got something more fitting on the way. :)

Very Nice.

My 26er is moving along slowly.

Just finished building the rear Wheel. Looks tiny NeXT to my fatbike and 29er Wheels.

My Blender from around 2008.

Possibly ahead of it's time on seat and head angles, terrible tyre clearance, an absolute pig to ride uphill or across flat ground.
Point it downhill on steep technical tracks and it was ace, landed like a cat, much fun on the Dragon tracks, terrible on fort william went 853 after that little adventure ;)

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1991 GT Xiang

My surly troll

Pic

https://goo.gl/photos/tZ4jksEbmQywvSNY9

Thanks lol couldn't figure it out

One of your creations?

Hi everyone, i want your opinions about a frameset. What is the normal value of a colnago ibex mtb frameset?(f+f)

I'd say 600 euro. ;-)

Thanks WimVDD. I guess so. With a stuck seatpost i guess 250ish?

I was just kidding because I have one for sale at the moment. Stuck seatpost, you say? Than it's not mine you're after. ;-)

I'd be careful with stuck seatposts. Sometimes it's piece of cake to get them out, sometimes you loose frame and money you paid for it...

I have a 26er rock lobster (reynolds 853) with suspension forks - I am planning to put rigid forks on it, and I also feel like it could do with a bit more aggressive geo. is it a thing to put rigid forks that are not suspension corrected, or does that mess with the handling too much (given I haven't got massive rake on the 26er rigid forks I found from an old ridgeback).
if I should just go for 29er forks, I have two options, one would be carbon and the other steel (525) ... I am thinking of going with the carbon to keep it light, but perhaps the steel is a better match? any tips on switching to rigid with forks that were not specifically designed for suspension correction?

Try to figure out what length you need. Or just stick what you have in there until you find how you like it

It is way better to have too long than too short fork in your mtb. I assume that that your rock lobster is made for 80-120mm suspension fork? In that point you should have at least 420mm A-C ridig fork. Non suspension corrected fork will totally made your bike horrible to ride, if the frame is made for suspension fork

ok, but horrible in what way? twitchy steering? imbalanced loads? most MTBs are such upright geometry (for me who never gets to ride off-road) that they are not what I am looking for anyways, I only got this for the 853 frame tbh.