Any question answered...

What's the time limit in the UK for dormancy?

@Howard It wasn't much they managed to grab to begin with in the first year it came in, only AUD340million...when it first came in I thought they'd get a figure scraping the high 100s of millions.

15 years with no activity.

Thanks, looks like I'll give it a miss then.

They don't make the 'bantam' in silver with a keyring hole any more - only ones I can find are anodised.
I found a youtube video where they burn the colour off, this is the direction that I think I'm going to take.

Can someone point me in the direction of a thread that will tell me how to train effectively and trounce my mates in an upcoming race (Sept). Ta.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/171238/ ?

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/167432/?offset=4850#comment12857241

I have a load of sockets, ratchet drives, extension bars etc.

90% of the stuff is the same size of drive, just the around 10mm and smaller sockets being a smaller drive.

Most of it's inherited, I've never bothered with what size of drive the stuff is and anything I've bought from the local tool store has fitted.

I now need to order a Tbar online and I've no idea if I need 3/8" or 1/2" drive. Any ideas?

10mm and smaller is most usually 1/4" sq, which is easily differentiated from 1/2"

I've no idea if I need 3/8" or 1/2" drive. Any ideas?

Have you considered measuring? 😊

Get a 1/2" T-bar and 1/2"-3/8" and 3/8"-1/4" reducers if you're in doubt.

I've just measured 3/8" is 9.5mm and 1/4" is 6.3mm

Yeah, but I forgot to do so before coming to work and now I'm at work, bored, and internet shopping to pass the time.

I just wondered if there was a defacto drive size.

I really suspect it's 1/2" as the small sockets will be 1/4" and I have a torque wrench actually that fits neither, I had to get a reducer to use it with the wee stuff and an inverse reducer to use it with the big stuff so it'll be 3/8" and everything else will be 1/2".

Probably.

Getting the tbar to chuck in my bag/back pocket when I ride bmx so trying to keep it as light as possible so want to avoid using reducers.

I'm looking for a home insurance company.

Price is going to be a major factor that I can work out myself, but I wanted to ask if anyone had any recommendations for good providers?

Cheers

Rounded off a square taper crank Allen bolt. Going to drill it out from the NDS through the axle.

Recommendation for a drill bit that's up to the job?

Any HSS drill bits should be ok, but probably best to start of say with some like 3 or 4mm and work up in sizes.

If you do not have any bits, buy a set usually works out much cheaper.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/hss-metal-boxed-drill-bit-set-metric-19-pc/15046

We are with LV and when I lived at home my folks were too.

The basic policy I have covers bikes up to a good value for theft from the home (or garage).

The 'Bikes away from home' policy my folks had paid out readily when I got knocked off my bike, there was little more than a dent in the toptube. They also agreed to cover the cost of a dearer bike than I was insured for cause I couldn't see one at the right price that I liked.

I went with them when I moved out as my 'rents said they'd claimed a few times and always had good service, quick payouts etc.

Hiscox always seem to have a good reputation. Not the cheapest though.

Cheers guys.

Mrs Savage asked me a question which I couldn't answer. We watched a TV programme recently which had a bit about a guy running through woodland with his Chihuahua by his side. Does anyone know wtf we're on about? She thinks she saw them running through Swinley Park and wants to see a picture.

Two-part epoxy: can it be "unbonded"?

I've got metal plugs in the end of my TT extensions (also metal) which I would like to keep if I sell the bars.

Acetone?

Heat and lots of it. Which may not be the answer you are looking for. Enough heat will turn it to a friable consistency which destroys its bonding power.

Two-part epoxy: can it be "unbonded"?

Heat to above the glass transition temperature, which is probably somewhere between 80°C and 120°C. Do it with a hot air gun outside and stand upwind, the vapours are not good for you. I'm not sure what the temperature limit of the dye in the anodising is, I've done low temperature enamelling on the same material/process at 150°C , but you may cause colour burn off if you go mad with a flame.

Re home insurance, just to add to the hive knowledge bank...

In order of score according to a well know consumer magazine the top ones in December 2015 are:

NFU Mutual
M&S
John Lewis
RIAS

Side note Hiscox didn't have enough survey results to score.

Unlikely that acetone will touch it as it is a chemical reaction which made the glue set. Are the bars plugged in the same way at each end? I think boiling water might have some effect so stick them in a saucepan and see if the ends will loosen up. If you could get it inside the tube it might work better if it works at all.