Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • I'm mad I know. But to be fair there are plenty of 'complete' NJS builds that many on here are proud of with non NJS wheels and perhaps missing the odd NJS BB or headset. It makes sense in my head. Instead of using a certain finishing kit or only Italian components i'm going for NJS parts. Anything that works with then build i'll have.

  • if it makes you happy, @Husy, then go for it

    He can't go for it, because NJS spokes are too long.

  • It makes sense in my head

    You need your head examined. NJS kit is old-fashioned and over-priced, it exists as a concept solely as a means of trade protectionism. To me, the anti free market aspect alone would be sufficient reason to give it a wide berth.

  • For me, the only NJS parts that are actually worth buying for a non full njs build would be cranks and hubs. However there are numerous cranks out there that are just as stiff or better than Sugino and DA cranks now and although 7600 hubs are lovely, they are a pain to maintain in comparison to a sealed bearing alternative. As Tester has said, the stamp is there to keep a level playing field for gambling, not to provide the best equipment for the riders.

    Can we gamble on how well this build goes?

  • As Tester has said, the stamp is there to keep a level playing field for gambling

    That's not what I said. The restrictive regulation of equipment is there to level the playing field, the JKA rules on certification of manufacturers are pure protectionism. The NJS stamp was successfully, and almost certainly deliberately, misrepresented as a quality mark, which I suspect is the reason why Campag and Cinelli eventually jumped through the unnecessary hoops required to become accredited suppliers.

  • Cha stronglight 2000 are probably as stiff as sugino 75 and cheaper but I don't like the look of them (or omnomnoms) and I like the sugino / da / campags.

    Tl:Dr choices aren't always on value / economics /or even practicality see also hhsb ;)

    But having to go through hoops for spokes that aren't very visible (well in the scheme of things you need a magnifier to read the spoke head stamp) and wont fit unless custom threaded by a shop that I guess isn't for me but then I buy aci over sapim too, very much a value buyer here :)

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  • wont fit unless custom threaded by a shop

    JKA regulations prohibit modification of components, so even if the thick section of a 305mm Hoshi NJS spoke was long enough to allow cutting down to fit a 24" rim (I doubt that it is), the spokes would no longer be NJS certified anyway :-)

  • ^ this, it totally defeats the point of standardised to make it be'spoke'

  • be'spoke'

    I like it!

  • Ahah.

    I'm sure you can appreciate good enforcement on this, a non enforced standard isn't really ;)

  • Don't want to derail the wheel building thread too much. Just because I'm after NJS, it doesn't mean I don't know that they are over priced average components and that the NJS marking is not a quality mark. I'm doing it for the novelty. I happened to get the parts really cheap so it makes sense to me.

    Like I said above, it's like trying to have as many Italian parts as possible, or as many parts manufactured pre 70's or something. Just a cool thing for me, no real reason. Certainly not because I think i'll have high quality components because they have 3 letters etched on them.

  • Have you understood anything anyone has said about NJS spokes? You seem to be missing the point

  • Are they butted? If not, he could always get them chopped down and rethreaded. Of course, then they wouldn't be NJS...

  • Are they butted?

    There are butted ones and bladed ones. I suppose it's not beyond the realms of possibility that either Hoshi or Asahi have, at some time in the past, issued NJS certified plain gauge spokes, so @Husy could research that and if it turns out to be the case he could pay some lavish sum of money to obtain some NOS NJS spokes of a type suitable for shortening, and then void the certification by shortening them.

  • There are some NOS Asahi Cruiser (ETRTO 507 rim) spokes here, they must be about the right length for a 24" (ETRTO 520) rim assuming the lo-pro has a bit more rim depth than a BMX, and @husy can pretend they are NJS as they at least come from a manufacturer who made NJS spokes at some point in history :-)

  • Does @Husy regret asking about these spokes yet?

  • Heya, did you get any further with this one? still interested..

  • Work in progress


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  • Can someone help me out?

    I'm trying to order new spokes for a wheel build, simply replacing the old ones and the rims. I've measured the existing spokes as best I can, but they aren't 100% straight so I'm not confident in those measurements. Having double checked using various online calculators I'm left with a range of numbers and much confusion.

    Can someone advise me of the lengths I need for the following?

    FRONT (24h Radial) -
    DA 9000
    Archetype (ERD 595mm)
    DT Swiss Revolutions (I measured at 279mm)

    Rear (28h 3 cross I believe, please check pic) -
    DA 9000
    Archetype (ERD 595mm)
    DS - DT Swiss Comps (I measured at 282mm)
    NDS - DT Swiss Comps (I measured at 285mm)

    Please excuse the lack of knowledge here.


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  • Out of 30 odd archetypes I built lately, all of them are 592 ERD. You may want to measure these yourself.
    The 595 number is a fairy tale.

  • Unfortunately not in London. I'm in Swansea now in a different shop.

    http://www.pilothousecycles.co.uk/

    If you or anyone else is ever around that area let me know as I'm still keen to do some wheelbuilding evenings and perhaps courses.

  • That's good to know. Thanks.

  • Thanks tester! I love you really :)

  • Anyone know of a shimano 10sp compatible polished disc hub with cup and cone bearings?

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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