Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • Pretty much, a good clean and wipe will solve it nicely.

  • I'm interested to know if the shimano's will use both piston like the Spyre's or just one.

    Likely to be single sided.

  • Isopropyl alcohol.

  • Having an issue with a set of BB7's. Get everything cleaned, mounted and brakes run great for a few days and then begin to rub.

    Calipers are tightened to recommended torque but is it possible for the caliper to move on the mount? I was thinking they may be sliding around on the concave/convex spacers.

  • This. Cheap as chips and easily available at Boots!

  • Check if rotor trued?

  • Fair, didnt know they were out. cc/ @Pete4Eyes

  • Having an issue with a set of BB7's. Get everything cleaned, mounted and brakes run great for a few days and then begin to rub.

    Front brake only? Could be your QR skewer...

  • Yeah didn't know either. Did spot the posts here though. £90 to get rid of an adapter is mad. If it were the same price as the post mount caliper id entertain the idea.

    On another note, changed the stock pads for swissstop and when comparing the new and old noticed the profiling was different and the corner of the stock pads was rough and less worn. I suspect this was catching on the rotor arms and that was the noise I was hearing.

  • Yep £90 is cray but I guess thats the RRP.

  • £60 rrp on the post mount and they sell for around £53 at best. Oh well!
    They are working a dream so I just won't change anything. Other than the pads... Haven't had any squealing. Lol'd as my mate on his di2 spesh roubaix disc thing squealed for 100km the other week.

  • No its both wheels but will try different quick releases.

    Any other suggestions welcome. Very annoying issue.

  • What levers are you using?

  • Another dual-piston mechanical flat mount brake.

    Rever MCX1 flat mount

  • Works on a different part of the curve than Spykes and Avid BBx, interested to see what happens to power as the pad wears.

  • 140mm or 160mm rotors?

    If the frame I'm looking at fits 140mm by default but sounds like it will take 160mm with adapters - what would you get? 140mm because 'easy' or 160mm because I'm a fat bastard and could do with the extra stopper grippage?

  • 200mm.

  • @andyp Appears that the caliper may be moving away from the frame on the mount. Slackened off the inner piston on the front this morning and no rub. Is there any particular spacers I can use between the mount and caliper?


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  • I know, I know I'm too fast but anyone actually know if there's a noticeable difference?

    Do I really care about rotor size?

  • @hippy When I got mine for my town/cargo, I was told 200 was "better" and was the current "standard". But I having said that I have a 180 on the front and a 160 on the rear, and never had a problem stopping. This is with a heavy steel bike, me and a 15kg on the front rack too.

  • I doubt it. I'm running 160s on my 'road' bike, but weigh around 115kg. There's the usual arguments for better heat-dissipation on long ( alpine long ) descents and a supposed difference in feel.

    You're planning on running Shimano hydraulics, aren't you? I expect 140s would be fine. Maybe a 160 up front at the most.

  • I'm running 160s on my "road" bike too, but at ~77kg. I think 140 on the back would be better, it's a bit skid-happy when it's wet/loose/off road and that's with 35c tyres...

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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