Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Insights. Never looked inside a ryde rim. They are light and stiff tyres can be a tight fit.

Never used CN spokes and never going to. I like Sapim spokes and I am sticking with them.

The ryde pulse sprint is the best of the light weight rims in that it is the stiffest. Also reliably round and flat. You can get a 24F/28r set of these down to 1220g but with silly light extralite hubs.

Yeah man, i'm still a child ok!

@t_w Can a wheel not be handbuilt?

I am not trolling, I have always wondered why some wheel builders put those stickers on.

There are many machine built wheels.

Can a wheel not be handbuilt?

It can be hand built by robots
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/the-robot-wheel-building-revolution-37550/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yF_S1L0X68

Surely someone needs initially lace the wheel then the robot trues it laterally / radially and tensions it properly?

Well...it depends how long the non butted section is...

If they're all for 700c I doubt it's gonna work. I fear a Google and some emails to manufacturers may be needed.

Is 24" an NjS rim size?

Surely someone needs initially lace the wheel then the robot trues it laterally / radially and tensions it properly?

Apparently there are lacing robots too, although I couldn't find youtubes of all of the stages of lacing. J-bends with interlaced crossings must be hard to automate, and there are still plenty of cheap labourers (the bike radar article mentions prisoners and the continental equivalent of Remploy). Straight pull would be much easier.

Frakking toasters

It's because the wheel was built by hand from start to finish with no automation, by Talbot Wheelworks. That simple.

The majority of mass produced wheels are, as has been noted by other posters, either laced by humans and then essentially built to completion by machines or the entire process is automated. The real work in building in is the tensioning, truing, and balancing of spoke tensions in my opinion.
If a wheel is laced by hand and then finished by machines then it's not entirely handbuilt.

The real work in building in is the tensioning, truing, and balancing of spoke tensions in my opinion.

That's true, in the sense that it's the greater part of the labour time and skill, but it's far from clear that a human being is the best machine to do it.

Challenge accepted.

So say we all.

Planning to build up some Archetypes on Novatech track hubs (A185/A186)-

http://www.eshop.novatecwheels.eu/category/hubs-non-disc/a185sbt-a-track/
http://www.eshop.novatecwheels.eu/category/hubs-non-disc/a186sbt-a-track/

Does anyone know if the measurements on the site are accurate for calculating spoke length? Otherwise will probably wait until I get them to order the spokes.

Also, are claimed weights of 172g/233g accurate?

Front
P.C.D. 62mm
F.T.F. 70mm
Offset 0.0mm

Rear
P.C.D. 62mm
F.T.F. 59mm
Offset 0.0mm

Bit optimistic

Front
P.C.D. 62mm
F.T.F. 70mm
Offset 0.0mm

Rear
P.C.D. 62mm
F.T.F. 59mm
Offset 0.0mm

Looks about right, the flange to flange dimensions are overall, not centreline to centreline but spoke length is not highly sensitive to small changes in that dimension.

My ones with the old pattern lock nuts are 495g for a pair with track nuts but without lock rings. Nuts are 61g for a set of four, so even if Novatec forgot to include them in their weights, they're using Italian scales; there's no way the new pattern lock nuts are 30g lighter than the old (38g per hubset) ones unless Novatec have discovered a new material with negative gravitational mass.

With cut down bolt-on axles and minimalist lock nuts, mine are down to 400g for a pair including a method of keeping them attached to the bike.

Is there a better option for wide road rims available in 24/28 hole than the DT R460? Clincher, rim brake. I wouldn't mind something 25mm wide, or at least a hair wider than the DTs, but I'm not sure what I should be looking at.

at least a hair wider than the DTs

24mm wide Kinlin XR22T, and @thecycleclinic will not only sell them to you, he will also wax lyrical about the benefit of having the 28H rear in an offset configuration.

Thanks, good to know. I can definitely live with that.

What's the common consensus on the Archetype's ERD? Officially it's 595mm but have read quite a few times on this thread it's actually 593mm. Better to go with 286mm or 287mm spokes (or does 1mm not really matter either way)?

Of course the rim is non NJS. I've now been told by a few that it shouldn't be an issue. As the difference in width is so minor the threading will remain the same. I have my doubts but will seek more professional advice before I cut them.

Y U want NJS?

I'm massively overthinking my wheel rebuild, so apologies in advance.

I was set on a straight rebuild - Archetype's on DA9000 (24/28). Now, having read a bit more, the Kinlin XR22T looks good too. It's cheaper, lighter and a touch wider. I've been really happy with the Archetype's and they've given me everything I wanted. Lot's of reliable miles and ride well. Will the Kinlin's give me the same? Is the brake track good and thick? Are they as stiff?

Someone please tell me to stop over thinking and to just buy something. Thanks.

Is there something special about NJS spokes?

I've never built with them. I've used ACI ones which so far have been spot on and half the price of Sapim/DT Swiss.

Get those belgiums, you know you want them (plus it'll get rid of my temptation).

I can't bring myself to spend an extra £30/40 per rim just for a HED logo, as much as I'd like to.