Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

thought they might suit the bike being 'period' rims

Mavic Open 4 CD would be a nice period correct complement to 7400 hubs if you could find them, but rims are a consumable item so bikes for riding rather than wall hangers will always end up with rims from a later period than their hubs.

Got my first set of wooden rims CB Italia to build up for my 1948 RRA. 32F/40R not sure what to expect but I think I will peg the tensions at around 950N to 1000N. Not sure how much the rims can handle. gone for tubular rims and they look lovely.

TB14's or archetypes always look good on older bikes. Ambrosio Nemesis too for tubular goodness.

Question for the knowledgeable. I'm looking for a rear disc hub, 6 bolt 135mm 11 speed, is Novatec D712 the best option for the price conscious buyer?

It will be built up on DT Swiss R460s with a SP dynamo front. Usage will be almost exclusively Audax, so going for 32h.

Nice. Let us know how they build up. I've yet to build with a set of wooden rims but they intrigue me a lot.
When first reading about Ghisallo wooden rims as (then) used by Wheel Fanatyk, Eric Hjertberg gave the following somewhat cryptic reply when responding to questions as to whether wooden rims ever stayed true when built.
He said something like; "Consider the rims like a favourite pet dog, they will stray and wander a little bit, but never too far from home."

Novatec d712 is the cheapest option.

but rims are a consumable item so bikes for riding rather than wall
hangers will always end up with rims from a later period than their
hubs.>

This is actually a very good point

What's the go-to tubeless road rim that also works in low pressure Cyclocross situations?

I'd default to Grail but happy to try something else. @andyp has already suggested Pancenti, assume SL23 or similar.

Budget option: DT R460
Mid-range: Kinlin XR-31T

People keen to spend your money will suggest Pacenti SL25 or Hed Belgium+ without explaining why you need to spend that much on rims :-)

Ta :)

Should have said, doesn't matter if it has a brake track or not - using disc hubs but the ability to pop them in to a non disc frame is valued too.

There's a disc brake version of the R460, cosmetically nicer but it won't be after you've run a rim brake on it :-)

For pure disc brake use, and assuming 32 spokes are OK, I'd use one of the Mavic UST 29er rims

Budget option: DT R460
Mid-range: Kinlin XR-31T

What are the benefits of the Kinlin over DT?

Edit: looks like 1mm wider, bit deeper, slightly heavier, is that worth the extra £30 or so...

My next wheel build is going to involve a Planet X 101mm tubular rim, drilled for internal nipples. It was originally built with small nipple washers, and I'm going to fit the same washers when I rebuild it. So, 101mm deep rims, internal nipples and teeny little nipple washers. It already sounds like a total PITA. In order to get the washers in place before I start wobbling a nipple around inside the rim trying to make it thread onto the spoke, I'm thinking of using a claw-ended pick up tool to drop the washers in place. Has anyone else tried doing this, and if so, any good?

My next wheel build is going to involve a Planet X 101mm tubular rim

Bad start

Yeah, but I've got it already. I bought an 82/101 wheelset for TTing, replaced it with Zipps, and am going to rebuild the rear wheel with a 24h Powertap track hub for track use. It's for indoor track use only, so low yaw angles only and no side winds. Can't see why it shouldn't be adequate for that.

What are the benefits of the Kinlin over DT?

Mainly the possibility of using an offset rim with the Kinlin. Price difference is more like £20
Kinlin £50 each vs. DT £58 a pair shipped from Germany

Thanks! Already have 32h hubs, looks like Kinlin is only offset with lower drilling. Think I've ruled out any way to justify something more expensive than the DTs now.

Those DT Swiss R560 rims look like a nice rim, I might use them for my next set. Other than to save weight is there a reason they have no eyelets? Previously I have always used double eyeleted rims. Am I just being over cautious or old fashioned?

Think I've ruled out any way to justify something more expensive than the DTs now.

Ah, but if 32H then it's easy to justify spending £56 a piece on Mavic EN821, for the following reasons:

1. Offset drilling for stronger wheels
   
2. 21mm internal width works great with 28-35mm tyres
   
3. True UST tubeless means no messing about with tape
   
4. ISM leaves metal only where it needs to be, giving excellent strength:weight ratio
   
   

Downsides are that you don't want to go near them with a rim brake and they take twice as long to lace up as conventional rims.

Am I just being over cautious or old fashioned?

Of the two, I'd pick old fashioned as the most likely. Eyelets were probably a good idea on old fashioned tubular rims which were formed from a length of pipe of uniform wall thickness. Modern extrusions have thickened walls at the spoke bed, making eyelets redundant.

Thanks for the information, not being sticking to rims with eyelets makes a lot more rims available.

I need to buy some spokes - 32x 272mm and 32x 280mm.

Ideally black and on reasonably priced.

eBay has Halo / Araya black stainless steel ones for £13 / 36 including nipples in 272mm.
280mm are out of stock pretty much everywhere at this price level.

Any advice?

bike24?

Or Starbike - they're usually good for spokes.

Thanks chaps - I have modified my lacing pattern from 2x to 3x to 'need' longer spokes.

I will be ordered both Araya and Halo to compare & report.